Having a kilt altered...?

[Piedmont Highlander]

Hello all,

This seems to be a fairly straightforward question, but knowing kilts, I somehow think it isn't. How difficult is it to have a kilt taken in? I realize that these are fixed sizes and I know that things can be altered, but how much would it change a kilt? And how much does it cost? I ask because I'm looking at buying a kilt that's a little larger for me than I normally wear and I'd like to see if it's worth the trouble to get taken in. Thank you all for your feedback! I learn so much every time I start digging through here...

Josh

[The Wizard of BC]

Good Day sir,

OK, here it is in a nutshell.

Yes, kilts can be altered to be made smaller.

Now, the full answer -
Yes, they can, provided -
1. The kilt only needs the waist taken in.
2. If, after altering, the hips still fit well.
3. If the kilt does not need to be shortened or lengthened.
4. If the kilt is in good condition.

Taking in the waist of a kilt can be accomplished by removing and re-positioning the straps and buckles. The most I have ever taken in a kilt is about 5 inches. I know that Barb has done at least one kilt that needed to come in quite a bit more.

You remove the right buckles and the left, under-apron strap. Then re-sew these back on to the new measurements.

It is a little harder to adjust the hip circumference. If the Hips are too big you will get large, "shower curtain" ripples in the back of the kilt.
If the Hips are too small the aprons will gape open.
The bottom of the Fell area must be fairly close to the crest of the hips and buttocks. If the bottom of the Fell is too low you will again get the shower curtain effect.
If the bottom of the Fell is too high the pleats will not hang and will splay out.

Shortening a kilt can be done by hemming if the Fell is in the right place. If not the kilt must be shortened from the top waistband down. This is now a re-build job.
Lengthening is usually not possible. There is simply no more fabric to add in.

By good condition I mean - Was the kilt made well in the first place? If there is no stabilizer (and we are seeing more and more kilts where this small important item was missed or left out ) or the stabilizer or interfacings have failed over time you are into a re-build.
This is usually indicated by popped stitches in the Fell area or distortions of the Tartan fabric itself.

When straps and buckles are sewn on or re-positioned you do not sew them to the outer, Tartan fabric itself. You actually must. (and I can't stress that word MUST enough) sew all the way through the Tartan fabric and catch the stabilizer and interfacings.
The internal construction elements of a traditional kilt are what you are actually strapping on. The outer Tartan fabric should float over the stabilizer and interfacings without putting stress on the Fell stitching or the wool fabric.
If you fail to catch the stitching all the way though to the internal elements you have weakened the kilt and it WILL fail. Maybe not right away but soon.

If the straps were originally sewn just to the outer fabric you will already see the signs of stress. Popped stitches or distortion of the Tartan are fixable but again you are into a re-build situation.

A normal person, with a little care and knowledge of what needs to be done can take the waist of a kilt in. Moving the straps and buckles is not a hard or complex job.
You don't really need a kiltmaker. If you are handy with a needle and thread it should take no more than a few hours to accomplish.

Good luck and remember to post photos your new kilt.

[Grunthos]

How difficult is it to have a kilt taken in?

I just did this myself a few weeks ago; see my thread at:

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...80#post1264180

There is a really good step-by-step description at:

http://xmarksthescot.com/forum/f304/...-larger-78931/

I don't have much sewing skills, but I did it in about an hour or so with simply a needle and thread. Someone with sewing skills would have no problems at all with it.

If you have a really good deal on a kilt, don't let the slightly larger waist size be the obstacle, if it fits the other criteria mentioned here.

[tkdog]

Bonnie Heather Greene rebuilt my tank last year with a smaller waist and shorter length. She did a great job!

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=81397

[Piedmont Highlander]

Unfortunately, tkdog, the picture is no longer on the thread.

Thank you all for the very complete information! I did end up getting the kilt and I'm hoping it will get to me this week. Some specifics about the kilt, it's a Hugh MacPherson custom made kilt, 16 oz (I think), 42" waist. I wear about a 39-40" waist, so if I'm lucky I can just tighten it down. But if I can't, I'm not totally lost with a needle and thread. I'm hoping there won't be too much "shower curtain" going on, but if there is, I won't mind doing a rebuild so much, since it's a quality made piece.

Funny thing, I bought a vintage Hugh MacPherson kilt, but I knew it didn't fit me. I've been trying to sell it, unsuccessfully, but I have to laugh that I've gotten my hands on another one that will (hopefully) fit me. I wouldn't think there would be that many of these just floating around, but I guess you never know!

I'll be sure to post some pictures when I get it.

[tpa]

Bonnie Heather Greene rebuilt my tank last year with a smaller waist and shorter length. She did a great job!

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=81397

Link works, Photobucket picture within it doesn't show.

[tkdog]

Sorry. Here's another picture of it.

[tpa]

Looks very good indeed, the whole ensemble is very smart.

[Pleater]

With some kilts, pleated to the set, when you alter the waist size then you throw the placing of the set off - usually the same element of the set is chosen to appear centre front and back. By moving the buckles you can no longer align the two elements.

One reason I made a lot of my kilts pleated to the stripe like a military kilt was to reduce the amount of work to change the size when I was losing weight and lost a considerable number of inches from my waist - or equator as it used to be.

I have some kilts with straps and buckles and I remove them whenever I wash the kilt - I use silk button thread and sew straight through all the layers of the kilt, through the hole in the leather, then down through the next hole and back to the inside of the kilt, repeat along the row and then back along the next row of holes, then tie the two ends of the thread in a knot. The leather is not good enough quality to take washing, so it is necessary to remove them or see them fall apart.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[Kylahullu]

...
It is a little harder to adjust the hip circumference. If the Hips are too big you will get large, "shower curtain" ripples in the back of the kilt.
If the Hips are too small the aprons will gape open.
The bottom of the Fell area must be fairly close to the crest of the hips and buttocks. If the bottom of the Fell is too low you will again get the shower curtain effect.
If the bottom of the Fell is too high the pleats will not hang and will splay out.
...

How much harder is that "a little harder to adjust the hip circumference"? Can it be done without completely remaking the kilt?

I have a woollen handmade (unknown maker) about 7yd kilt with OK waist size but the hip size is too big and it has quite bad shower curtains in the back. So the hip sizing should be taken in a bit.
Is there any way to do it simple?
The fell is on the right place, not too high or low. The kilt seems to have stabiliser, haven't opened it but no stretching happens if I try to pull the buckles.

This kilt is showing some marks of wear (if you have a close look) and the straps had got loose and the interfacing ends did not meet the straps in the aprons. Already fixed that and pressed the kilt. Got the kilt from ebay for about £21 including shipping. The kilt will never be a "black tie event kilt" so this resizing needs just to end to be better looking than the curtains. If I can get rid of those curtains I will have a perfect "jeans equivalent" kilt for what ever activities I do not want to endanger a better kilt.