In a previous thread (closed) I introduced one of the earliest kilts to survive and discussed whether it was perhaps a/the original form of the original kilt style?
I've recently had the opportuinity to reexamine it and more importantly, arrange is on a mannequin which, whilst not the idea shape, at least allowed me to get an idea of how the kilt would have been worn.
The loose pleats which Matt Newsome described as sewn-in, not sewn-down as today, is quite obvious. The long tying tape goes once around the body and fastens to a shorter length on the inner apron. At 3 yds this would be considered a 'skirt' by most kiltmakers today but with the pleats only lightly sewn it allows for a remarkable amount of freedom that requires much more material in a kilt when the pleats are fully sewn down.
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