On the Fence

**Mikilt** · 21st September 15, 06:13 PM

Consider where you live. If it's a warmer climate, the 5 yard might be ideal for you. Yes, you can wear it formally.

You will get the best swish with an 8 yard kilt. Also, you will have choice of pleating to the sett or stripe.

**sbevans** · 21st September 15, 06:49 PM

I have several kilts including 5 and 8 yard wool kilts. To be honest, I like my 5 yard kilts the best, but that's just my preference. The most important thing in my opinion, is choosing the right tartan fabric.

**tulloch** · 21st September 15, 10:10 PM

I have an 8-yard hand-made kilt pleated to the sett. I have worn band kilts. All are heavy weight - 16 oz. I have a 16 oz 5-yard that is great, has enough weight to remind me I have a tail and was reasonably priced. Because of the short yardage the pleating options were not considered and it is pleated to nothing. It still looks good. If I could only have one I would coose the 8-yard by far. It has a pronounced swish as I walk, it is beautifully pleated to the sett and it fits me perfectly.

**SeumasA** · 22nd September 15, 03:20 PM

It seems like there have been several threads on this subject lately. There is one aspect of the discussion I haven't seen anybody else address.
Like many others, I've had both five yard and eight yard kilts. I think a lot of it depends on your build. For instance, I'm 5' 7", and weighed in at a whopping 148 pounds after this morning's workout. Eight yards is a lot of material wrapped around my waist. My five yard kilt fits my frame better and is much more comfortable, for me. My younger half brother is six inches taller and a hundred pounds heavier. His eight yard kilt fits and looks better on him.

**Father Bill** · 22nd September 15, 03:42 PM

One of the things that we need to remember is that "8 yards" is a style, not a measurement. Such a kilt on a heavy man will have a lot more cloth than on a skinny fellow, but is still considered to be an "8 yard kilt" because of the type of pleating that go into it. A "5 yard" kilt merely means that the pleats are wider and fewer in number.

**230Ball** · 22nd September 15, 04:46 PM

Great points SeumasA and Father Bill! However, I'm really confused, but feel I'm also getting a little smarter.
I am 5'10" tall at just under 160 lbs. Will my measurements and specification for pleat size determine whether it will be a 5- or 8-yard, or do I specify 5- or 8-yard and let the pleat size become the compromise? Or... am I over-thinking this?

**Father Bill** · 22nd September 15, 05:05 PM

Work with your kilt-maker and specify which of those you want. The pleats and styling will work themselves out in consultation.

Always pick your kilt-maker first and work from there. Ideally, one close enough to meet with so that s/he does the measurements the way s/he wants to. Having said that, My favourite (Keltoi) does most of his work over the 'net and has had no problems whatever pleasing people by doing that.

**OC Richard** · 22nd September 15, 05:15 PM

I had only worn 8-yard kilts (so-called, I didn't measure the actual yardage) for many years- when I started wearing kilts that's all there was.

But around 10 years ago I noticed the band kilt I had been issued was particularly comfortable. It was nice hefty 16-oz wool yet wasn't as heavy in the back as my own kilts. I noticed that the pleats were around 1" wide each, wider than my other kilts. Knowing that this indicated less yardage I measured how many yards there were in that kilt and it was rather less than 8, as best I can recall it was between 6 and 7.

For me that seemed to be an ideal compromise between a kilt "looking like a real kilt" and comfort. So when it came time for me to order a new kilt for myself I told the kiltmaker to make the pleats around 1" wide, that I realized that this meant less yardage. The result is the nice Isle Of Skye 16-oz kilt that I wear regularly. (For me 16-oz tartan is a must.)

For sure kilts that have narrow pleats, between 1/2" and 3/4", and have between 25 and 30 pleats across the back, have that "real kilt" look to them, they just do. It's the standard way kilts have been made since the last quarter of the 19th century. But let's face it, having all those yards of fabric on the back makes the kilt unbalanced and quite heavy in the back.

So... how about splitting the difference and ordering a 6-7 yard kilt?

My beau ideal of the kilt: the kilt in the mid-19th century, with slightly wider pleats and a bit less yardage

The pleats of my Isle Of Skye (44" waist, I'm a big guy)

**230Ball** · 22nd September 15, 05:25 PM

Father Bill, thanks for the tip. I checked Keltoi's site and found their Knife-Pleated Standard Kilt, pleated to the stripe, averaging 10-15 pleats. Is this the number of pleats I should be looking for?
Also, being hand-stitched vice machine sewn makes it very attractive for formal attire although it's a 5-yarder.

**Dileasgubas** · 22nd September 15, 05:34 PM

Originally Posted by Father Bill

One of the things that we need to remember is that "8 yards" is a style, not a measurement. Such a kilt on a heavy man will have a lot more cloth than on a skinny fellow, but is still considered to be an "8 yard kilt" because of the type of pleating that go into it. A "5 yard" kilt merely means that the pleats are wider and fewer in number.

The tag on my Regimental kilt says it was made of 11.5 yards of wool. It is pleated to the stripe from a very large sett pattern. While very nice, you do notice the weight difference after a long day.