Kilt Jacket and Waistcoat

[Walkman]

I like the style of jacket and waistcoat worn by the Duke of Rothesay in the photo attached below, i.e., straight bottom waistcoat, crail cuffs, sans epaulettes. Would this be properly referred to as Braemar, Tweed, other?

[Jock Scot]

That is a bespoke jacket made specifically for the Duke of Rothesay and doesn't it show! So in consultation with his tailor he can have whatever he wants. It is a tweed kilt day jacket for sure, but I doubt that it has a particular style name. Any of us could have a style of jacket like that, as long as you can find a tailor-----a scarce commodity these days----- to make you one and you know what you want and you have deep pockets.

Not so long ago, in my lifetime, every town would have a tailor and the customer went to have their attire made to order, or a local seamstress, or even someone within the household would make handmedown clothing to fit the new owner and often they used to fit like a glove. It might sound rather grand these days, but that is how it was done if any of us wanted a new kilt jacket, sports jacket, suit, or, kilt. Whilst everyone knew what an argyll cuff was there was not any of this argyll, crail, whatever style thing and often what was described as a "this" style of jacket in Inverness it was known as something completely different some sixty miles away in Fort William. I really miss the conversations that were had with one's tailor whilst getting measured for a new something, deciding on the cloth, the cut, sleeve length, lapel shape, number of vents, buttons and so on and whilst one thought that one had a major input into how ones new item of clothing was going to look, it was actually the tailor that decided what actually was going to happen! Make no mistake though, getting a new suit, for example was not a common occurrence and therefore it was made to last and my word did they!

Its only in this modern mass produced era of "off the peg" jackets have any consistent style names come to the fore and sometimes even that is not to be relied upon. I think I am right in saying, that there are four main kilt jacket makers in the UK these days making kilt jackets for the world mass market, so standardisation is a very recent thing, but sadly if you are not of a standard size then it is not always easy to find a jacket that fits even vaguely properly.

[The Wizard of BC]

The names of jackets can be very confusing at times. A name used by one company may mean something totally different from another company.
Where this whole thing with names comes from is that today there are very few makers of kilt jackets. The last time I checked there were three. Long gone are the days when every village had a tailor and each tailor offered their own distinctive style.

Today most of the jackets come from one of these mass production shops. They have standardized the patterns to make it simpler and easier to make thousands of jackets each year.

One retailer lists their standardized styles based on the cuff treatment. The basic jacket is exactly the same. The same single button front, the same pocket flaps, the same epaulets. The only difference is the cuff treatment.

If the jacket has a gauntlet cuff it is called an Argyle.
If the jacket has a placket cuff it is called a Braemer.
If the jacket has a single button on a closed cuff it is called a Crail.



The jacket in your photo is custom made. It is not one of the standard jackets. But it is similar in treatment to another style that is becoming more popular called a Wallace style.


My own answer to this jacket conundrum was to have a jacket made more like the one in your photo but cut fuller in the body for a more N. American fit. I straightened the front to create a 3 button front, removed the scalloping and buttons on the pocket flaps and made the flaps work equally well out or tucked in. I removed the epaulets and also removed the gauntlet cuff and replaced it with a 3 or 4 button open cuff. I also significantly reduced the size of the sporran cut-away in the front.

I would like to point out that this is not a custom made or bespoke jacket. I carry these in my shop and sell them off the rack. They are exactly the same price as my Prince Charlie Coatees, my Argyles, and my Tweed Argyles. Four style options for the same price.





I will often wear my Kilt Kut Suit Coat with a contrasting color vest. Sometimes with the "V" to the bottom and sometimes with a straight bottom.



I can have this jacket made in 36 different fabrics and made to measure if you do not fit in a standard size.

[McMurdo]

I recently went for a bespoke jacket and waistcoat, in my case in the Scottish Wildcat Tartan, it really was an experience not to be missed to go into my chosen tartan shop, one with an onsite tailor mind you, with a box of tartan to discuss making the waistcoat and jacket. Personally I love the look of gauntlet cuff and epaulets, however for this jacket the tailor thought that it would be too much to have those details on the jacket, so I deferred to her expertise and we went with a plain cuff with no epaulets. I did however request a straight bottom on the waistcoat and a pocket watch button hole and replaceable buttons, I use silver buttons for evening and leather for day, I also got the waistcoat with lapels. Honestly it was not overly expensive to have the jacket and waistcoat made and it really has been worth every penny. It really is an experience you don't want to miss. I will say though that if you are going to go this route I would recommend that you find a reputable tailor in your area that has experience with making a kilt jacket as they are a different animal than a Saxon jacket.


Evening wear

Day wear

As you can see, with a change of accessories and the time it takes to swap out the buttons I have completely different outfits.

[Walkman]

That is a bespoke jacket made specifically for the Duke of Rothesay and doesn't it show! So in consultation with his tailor he can have whatever he wants. It is a tweed kilt day jacket for sure, but I doubt that it has a particular style name. Any of us could have a style of jacket like that, as long as you can find a tailor-----a scarce commodity these days----- to make you one and you know what you want and you have deep pockets.

Not so long ago, in my lifetime, every town would have a tailor and the customer went to have their attire made to order, or a local seamstress, or even someone within the household would make handmedown clothing to fit the new owner and often they used to fit like a glove. It might sound rather grand these days, but that is how it was done if any of us wanted a new kilt jacket, sports jacket, suit, or, kilt. Whilst everyone knew what an argyll cuff was there was not any of this argyll, crail, whatever style thing and often what was described as a "this" style of jacket in Inverness it was known as something completely different some sixty miles away in Fort William. I really miss the conversations that were had with one's tailor whilst getting measured for a new something, deciding on the cloth, the cut, sleeve length, lapel shape, number of vents, buttons and so on and whilst one thought that one had a major input into how ones new item of clothing was going to look, it was actually the tailor that decided what actually was going to happen! Make no mistake though, getting a new suit, for example was not a common occurrence and therefore it was made to last and my word did they!

Its only in this modern mass produced era of "off the peg" jackets have any consistent style names come to the fore and sometimes even that is not to be relied upon. I think I am right in saying, that there are four main kilt jacket makers in the UK these days making kilt jackets for the world mass market, so standardisation is a very recent thing, but sadly if you are not of a standard size then it is not always easy to find a jacket that fits even vaguely properly.

Hi Jock,

Thanks for your sharing your thoughts and experience. I've always preferred quality over quantity and tradition over novelty. I would have preferred the times you describe, at least in regard to this subject. I have nothing against bold and flashy, it works well for some, it's just not my style. I'd just like a grey or brown tweed day jacket/waistcoat, with simple buttons (not big and shiny), plain sleeves, no epaulettes, etc. Prince Charles is always the picture of good taste.

[Walkman]

The jacket in your photo is custom made. It is not one of the standard jackets. But it is similar in treatment to another style that is becoming more popular called a Wallace style.


My own answer to this jacket conundrum was to have a jacket made more like the one in your photo but cut fuller in the body for a more N. American fit. I straightened the front to create a 3 button front, removed the scalloping and buttons on the pocket flaps and made the flaps work equally well out or tucked in. I removed the epaulets and also removed the gauntlet cuff and replaced it with a 3 or 4 button open cuff. I also significantly reduced the size of the sporran cut-away in the front.

I would like to point out that this is not a custom made or bespoke jacket. I carry these in my shop and sell them off the rack. They are exactly the same price as my Prince Charlie Coatees, my Argyles, and my Tweed Argyles. Four style options for the same price.

I will often wear my Kilt Kut Suit Coat with a contrasting color vest. Sometimes with the "V" to the bottom and sometimes with a straight bottom.



I can have this jacket made in 36 different fabrics and made to measure if you do not fit in a standard size.

Thanks, Steve. Your post helps a great deal. The photo above is the look I'm after and I really like the contrasting vest. Very nice. I'll take a look at your site.

[Walkman]

I recently went for a bespoke jacket and waistcoat ... Honestly it was not overly expensive to have the jacket and waistcoat made and it really has been worth every penny. It really is an experience you don't want to miss. I will say though that if you are going to go this route I would recommend that you find a reputable tailor in your area that has experience with making a kilt jacket as they are a different animal than a Saxon jacket.


Day wear

As you can see, with a change of accessories and the time it takes to swap out the buttons I have completely different outfits.

Very nice, McMurdo. Swapping buttons for the occasion is something that I hadn't considered. Great tip.

I need to find a tailor here in Denver that has experience altering kilts anyway, as I've lost quite a bit of weight this past year. Maybe I can find one that has experience making kilt jackets as well.

[Walkman]

Deleted - duplicate post.

[Jock Scot]

Hi Jock,

Thanks for your sharing your thoughts and experience. I've always preferred quality over quantity and tradition over novelty. I would have preferred the times you describe, at least in regard to this subject. I have nothing against bold and flashy, it works well for some, it's just not my style. I'd just like a grey or brown tweed day jacket/waistcoat, with simple buttons (not big and shiny), plain sleeves, no epaulettes, etc. Prince Charles is always the picture of good taste.

We appear to be fellow travelers on this subject. A wee story about my green tweed kilt day jacket, sometimes seen here, made for me over thirty, maybe forty years ago by the then local tailor. I well remember going into his shop with a length of tweed that happened to be about at home and asking him if he could make a kilt jacket out of it. I had a very good idea what I wanted style wise and discussed it with him, after a long silence he handed the tweed back to me and said "if you want a kilt jacket of the style you describe, then find someone else to make it!"

So, okaaay I thought, perhaps I had better hear his reasoning, which I did. The end result was I had my way with the argyll cuffs( I like them), but he had his way with no epaulettes, longer sleeves than I wanted and no lapels on the waistcoat. His reasoning was that the weight of the tweed, the particular colour and the buttons that I wanted(antler), then my idea would not look good and he was putting his reputation on the line. He was right! Over all that time with me growing outwards as one does and latterly I am shrinking the jacket has served me well. Yes, I think the sleeves need shortening now due to my shrinkage, but I think that the jacket will see me out without alteration. I think that I can imagine one of my grandsons wearing it in due course. Yes I miss those er um, well conversations.

[Walkman]

I did however request ... a pocket watch button hole ...

I really like the way you and Steve are wearing your pocket watch chains in the above photos, McMurdo. Does that require a "pocket watch button hole"? I've never heard of that before. I always figured that you simply loop the chain over the button.