Jacobite Era Coat on display at NMS

[Sir William]

Hope to see it when I'm in Edinburgh in August.

[figheadair]

Peter,
Having examined an enlarged version of the coat photo, I am of the opinion that it is consistent with the mid-1740's. Highland jackets were somewhat in advance of the rest of Britain in having collars (sometimes appliqued on separately and not part of the body of the coat). The "crail" cuffs with a cuff are of a type that was used in that day on British Army regimental coats, and the short lapels with the three lower closure buttons are also of a type known then (see the portrait of Lord Loudoun in his regimentals). The use of velvet as an ornament was not unknown and certainly could have been used by a wealthy man to display his high status. The only surprise to me was that the tartan is not red-based. My tuppence worth.

Gerry, interesting and helpful observations. PM sent.

[IsaacW]

The use of velvet as an ornament was not unknown and certainly could have been used by a wealthy man to display his high status.

Velvet collars were also quite common on hunting/sporting coats in the 18th century, which, as "Luke" mentioned, were often of the cut seen on this coat.

[ItchyTick]

Cool piece of history

[figheadair]

Article from yesterday's Scotsman.

And here's the coat with a piece of Wilsons' c1830-40 Culloden Taran aligned against it. Wilson's must have had access to the coat to copy it. That or the coat is later and made from Wilsons' material.

[Orvis]

Article from yesterday's Scotsman.

And here's the coat with a piece of Wilsons' c1830-40 Culloden Taran aligned against it. Wilson's must have had access to the coat to copy it. That or the coat is later and made from Wilsons' material.

Peter,

Of the two possibilities that you mentioned, I believe the first one is correct. From your book on Wilson's pattern book, I think it was made clear that Wilson's sometimes copied older, country-woven 18th c. tartans, and that's what I expect they did in this case. Although the second possibility (that the coat was made later during the Highland Revival period from Wilson's pre-existing tartan) is not beyond the realm of probability, I believe the coat to be an 18th c. one (all the details are correct for that period) and that Wilson's copied the cloth.

[figheadair]

I had an opportunity to have a look at the coat earlier this week. All the buttons are missing and it looks as though it may have been altered at a later date, perhaps during the Highland Revival era. There is something about the cut of the collar and the way that the velvet cuffs hide the original button openings that don't look original.

Interestingly, it is described as a Frock Coat which seems wrong for this style of Highland coat.

[Luke MacGillie]

Oh, wow, so the lapels were added on later, that is so interesting, namely because I have done that from time to time with different reenactment coats, as some regiments (Royal Highland Regiment to be exact) went from single breasted to lapelled during their time of service here in North America.

[figheadair]

Oh, wow, so the lapels were added on later, that is so interesting, namely because I have done that from time to time with different reenactment coats, as some regiments (Royal Highland Regiment to be exact) went from single breasted to lapelled during their time of service here in North America.

That's certainly the view of costume experts I've discussed this coat with. The cuffs too are thought to be later, otherwise the opening of the original marine cuffs would have been included had the velvet been contemporary.

[figheadair]

The coat is now online and can be rotated to see the whole garment – see here.

The same can be done with the suit that belonged to Sir John Hynde Cotton.