A waistcoat question

**OC Richard** · 18th October 17, 08:00 PM

Wonderful waistcoat there!

Here's a vintage photo well showing the low straight-top civilian spats (quite different than the military ones) and you can also see the lower flapped pockets on the waistcoat

About four-pocket ordinary waistcoats, I've seen quite a few in Malls but the pockets have been nonfunctional/decorative.

I've seen Orvis waistcoats with four functional pockets though.

**Piobair** · 19th October 17, 01:49 PM

Originally Posted by Tarheel

Piobair has a good point on length of vest and height of kilt. I don't think those of us with kilts that are made to touch our bottom rib will have a problem.

It varies pretty widely. For instance, I love Geoffrey (Tailor), but their waistcoats are insanely short. I like buying from Higgins when I can, but their waistcoats are always a little off. I used to have a waistcoat I got in '93 from the Shepherd tent at the World's that was perfect - until it mysteriously "shrunk" 25 years later. I purchased a tweed crail from USA Kilts a few years back, and the accompanying waistcoat was great. The only problem was that it was too big, so off it went. Unless you're working with the tailor or have the option of trying lots of different options out in person, it's kind of a crap shoot. I also hate not knowing where these a lot of these waistcoats and jackets are made. I think many of us would pay a bit more to know that we were getting something from a craftsperson who cared about the finished garment.

With that said, I've been eyeing the Labhran jackets for a while now - their waistcoats look great (as does everything else) and I've only ever had positive experiences with them. I keep telling myself that if I start competing again, I'll take the plunge. Maybe it's a good thing that practicing in NYC is such a pain.

**kingandrew** · 2nd December 17, 04:18 AM

I've found that flat-bottomed, double-breasted vests work quite well with kilts. When I first got a kilt, this was my solution until I saved the money for a proper kilt jacket.

I just had my Chinese tailor make me an Argyll jacket and vest. It was her first time making such a garment. The jacket looks great. The vest is also nice looking, but is just a little off. The length is more like a vest for pants, such that it would completely cover my wide kilt belt if I wore it at the same time. I had designated a flat-bottom vest specifically to avoid that. It has the flapped pockets, but the flaps are flat rather than having the points at the bottom the way the jacket pockets do. This is due to the angle of the picture I gave her, which came from the Labran website. The vest is in the style of one owned by Prince Charles. She did, however, give me the tweed back I requested, rather than the usual satin.

But all that said, the vest looks fine when I wear it with the jacket and nobody but me thought it should be any shorter. I think the effect would be similar with a vest I pulled from a pants-suit.

Andrew

**kingandrew** · 7th December 17, 08:22 AM

Bratach,

You are right and I knew that the flaps were scalloped. But the angle of the photo and the less than perfect quality I was able to print out on our color copier, made that less clear to the tailor. So I have a one-of-a-kind vest with odd flaps. The vest also ended up longer than I had intended, landing about where a flat-bottomed suit vest would, rather than above the kilt belt, which was my goal.

The resulting coat and vest do look good and garnered many compliments when I wore them for St. Andrew's Day. But the discerning eyes of the rabble here would definitely detect these elements as being out of the ordinary.

I will also add that I really enjoy the House of Labhran blog, especially the posts of Victorian and other historic photos. They are a real inspiration to me. I certainly aspire to someday buy one of your antique sporrans.

Andrew

**Panache** · 7th December 17, 07:36 PM

David,

Simple answer: It depends on the particular waistcoat and how it fits with how you were your kilt.

I have some saxon waistcoats that work with my kilts and others that do not.

Do you have a photo of you wearing the waistcoat in question?

Cheers

Jamie

**David Dubh** · 10th December 17, 11:45 PM

Cheers Jamie
No I don’t I was simply wondering if it was possible or acceptable to use a “regular “ waistcoat with highland attire.
On a side note I hadn’t seen you on the site lately and was wondering about you.
Warmest regards David

**OC Richard** · 12th December 17, 06:28 PM

Originally Posted by Piobair

I've found that kilt-specific waistcoats have gotten shorter and shorter

Yah ain't kiddin'

Thing is, people can get longer waistcoats, they just don't, oftentimes.

I think at least half the problem is people wearing their kilts too low, as was mentioned above.

**gealach** · 13th December 17, 02:26 AM

Too low and with as much bling bling as possible.

If you're thinking about wearing a PC plus a belt, you have to make the waistcoat shorter. Otherwise the shiny buckle won't show

EDIT: And whilst you're at it, don't forget to wear the fly plaid over your right shoulder... just as a statement.

**Luke MacGillie** · 13th December 17, 04:34 AM

Originally Posted by gealach

Too low and with as much bling bling as possible.

If you're thinking about wearing a PC plus a belt, you have to make the waistcoat shorter. Otherwise the shiny buckle won't show

EDIT: And whilst you're at it, don't forget to wear the fly plaid over your right shoulder... just as a statement.

To be fair, there are a number of 18th century images, as well as some surviving garments that show evidence of pinning the plaid to the shoulder was a personal preference. Most did it to the left, but some did it to the right, or even both shoulders....

**Archxpat** · 7th February 18, 05:08 AM

This is my favorite waistcoat, it is part of a shooting suit, with traditionally cut higher waisted plus fours. I think it works pretty well with the kilt, but I am pretty long in the body.

Here it is with the
Plus Fours.