Wearing the Montrose Doublet

[OC Richard]

The dress Argyle for evening wear in the advertisement appears to have satin lapels, not seen very frequently today unless a bespoke jacket I'd guess.

The only shop I've seen carry Evening Dress Argylls as a standard thing is Geoffrey Tailor.

They're made of fine Barathea in dark green, dark blue, claret, etc and have Russia Braid button loops on the cuffs and flaps, quite elegant. (Tweed Day jackets and most black Argyll jackets have suggestions of button loops created out of the cloth gathered and sewn in a bead.)

Most Prince Charlies I see nowadays have grosgrain lapels rather than satin, but I can't remember if the Geoffrey dress Argylls have those.

[Tobus]

Thanks for the information, folks. After thinking about it some more and discussing it with my spousal unit, I think I will pass on it. Lovely though it may be, I think it would just be another closet queen that never gets worn.

If anybody else who has a ~38" chest wants to have a go at it for $70, here's the link: http://www.rustyzipper.com/shop.cfm?...337476-MM16030

[Ivor]

I would love to wear this but as a newbie will wait but cannot understand why anyone would turn up this jacket. I may be a bit older but this is exactly how I identify Scottish dress.

[Allan Thomson]

I've always fancied a Montrose Doublet but the price puts it in the nice to have but not at the moment range at the moment.

I was wondering do you have any flexibility in the wearing of the Doublet as with for example a early 19th C (Napoleonic Period) Double Breasted British Officers Coatee or is it only suitable for wearing in the stereotypical way it is presented (ie button holes only on one side of the jacket, buttoned to the shoulder and closed to the neck with the Jabot on top)?

The reason I ask is that I think a Double Breasted Jacket should be flexible for the user to wear in a number of different ways. At least that's what I'd want out of it. So my ideal 'montrose' jacket would include the option to wear it:-

1)Front fully buttoned over closed, Jabot on top, belt on top as per conventional Montrose wear.montrose_doublet_in_black_barathea_special_order[1].jpg

2)Front buttoned over part way with top buttons undone to allow lapels to fold back to reveal shirt, cravat (tartan scarf?.. discuss?....) or jabot underneath and or waistcoat, belt on top of jacket (or alternatively could choose to turn the bottom of the lapels back as well to expose the bottom of the waistcoat and belt). LLHM071769[1].jpg

3)Open to reveal waistcoat and cravat/jabot (tartan scarf?), lapels buttoned back on both sides (fancy 'facing lining), belt underneath or omitted. With the Coatee there was also hooks and eyelets inside which would allow the coat lapels to be fully turned back but the front closed. NHSM072310[1].jpg

I know it's not the typical expectation of "how a Montrose Doublet Should be Worn" but it does have a historical precedent and if I'm spending around £1000 on a jacket (which is what they seem to go for) I'd like it to be able to do what I want it to do. I think it would also give a more versatile garment which could be used in a number of ways and not just for the typical formal evening wear.

I'm guessing I'm probably going to have to get a specialist tailor to do it or DIY myself from a pattern? I know my father was able to reconstruct a Napoleonic Coattee at Art College quiet effectively and it could do the things I have described. I guess ideally I'd like a waistcoat that can be buttoned close to the neck as well so I guess I'd have to make that too?

[PatrickHughes123]

My earliest catalogues only have The Doublet ("suitable for older gentlemen") and The Coatee (or the Prince Charlie Coatee, "suitable for younger men" it being a recent invention).
Then The Montrose appears, mentioned "for youths"

Though dirk belts and jabots were sometimes worn with the 19th century Evening jackets (Doublet and Argyll) by the early 20th century belts had ceased to be worn with those, and jabots rarely.

You make references to an earlier doublet, and I know you aren't talking about the Montrose, could you specify what doublet you're talking about exactly?

[tpa]

Thanks for the information, folks. After thinking about it some more and discussing it with my spousal unit, I think I will pass on it. Lovely though it may be, I think it would just be another closet queen that never gets worn.

If anybody else who has a ~38" chest wants to have a go at it for $70, here's the link: http://www.rustyzipper.com/shop.cfm?...337476-MM16030

I expect that is a sensible decision. My nearly 40 year old one (38" chest!) has only seen the light of day around half a dozen times. It was bought for my wedding and still fits. I wouldn't be without it though because my only other formal jacket is around 58 years old and looks it.

[MacRobert's Reply]

I have seen the Montrose worn in Scotland fully closed with jabot and lace cuffs and with jabot and French cuffs. I have also seen it worn open at the neck with a white cravat, white bow tie and black bow tie.

[Allan Thomson]

I have seen the Montrose worn in Scotland fully closed with jabot and lace cuffs and with jabot and French cuffs. I have also seen it worn open at the neck with a white cravat, white bow tie and black bow tie.

Sounds like it is possible, I guess open at the neck is quiet easy,was wondering could you see the lining when turned back & was there any evidence of button holes on both sides which would allow both lapels to be turned back?

[MacRobert's Reply]

Sounds like it is possible, I guess open at the neck is quiet easy,was wondering could you see the lining when turned back & was there any evidence of button holes on both sides which would allow both lapels to be turned back?

Yes the lining was visible when turned back Allan. Only a single button hole on the right 'lapel' that, when the jacket is closed, attaches to a button on the inside near the left shoulder.

[FossilHunter]

You make references to an earlier doublet, and I know you aren't talking about the Montrose, could you specify what doublet you're talking about exactly?

I believe that it refers to what is now known as the regulation doublet.