Civilian MBP: thoughts?

[Tobus]

I already have two kilts in my clan tartan: an Ancient Colquhoun 8-yard knife pleat (Lochcarron cloth), and a Reproduction Colquhoun 8-yard knife pleat (DC Dalgliesh cloth). They are both nice kilts in colour palettes I like. But I've always thought that I should own a kilt in Modern Colquhoun tartan with its dark colours. I'm not sure why I think I need one, except that it's an official version of the clan tartan, and probably the most recognised. It's the least exciting version to look at, and I really don't think it would ever excite me enough to want to wear it over the others ...unless I made something else about the kilt more interesting.

So on that note, I have been wondering what would make me want to wear a kilt in the Modern version of this tartan. I have developed an appreciation for high-rise military box pleated kilts (MBP). I have a QOH military kilt that I enjoy, but it's not my clan tartan. So why not get a kilt made that combines the two?

Normally I'm not one for dark tartan setts. The older regimental versions of Black Watch, Gordon, MacKenzie, etc., use blues and greens that are barely distinguishable from the black. The only colours that stand out are the white, red, or yellow stripes. And they pleat them very narrowly to these stripes. So using that same visual style, I would take the dark sett of Modern Colquhoun and pleat it to the central red stripe with typical narrow military box pleats. I would want to have it made just like the older regimental kilts with a 3" rise, double-prong buckles, and a green top band and hanger loops.

For comparison, here's my QOH kilt showing the pleating, straps, and green band.




I'd want to do a kilt just like that, but in Modern Colquhoun for a similar effect. It would have to be pleated to the central red stripe in the Colquhoun sett, I think, which would come off more like the Atholl Highlanders kilts. Here's Modern Colquhoun, with my poor attempt at showing the pleating and green band:



A few questions for you:

1. Who makes the darkest version of Modern Colquhoun in standard cloth (no custom weaves)? The image above is based on Lochcarron.
2. Who makes the largest sett? Military tartans tend to have huge setts, and I might like to use the largest one I can find, if it's dark enough.
3. Which kiltmakers offer traditional military box pleat kilts in non-military tartans?
4. Is there something I'm forgetting or misunderstanding about military kilts that wouldn't work here?
5. Is this a stupid idea?

[StevieR]

It’s a great idea. I’m currently making a kilt - my first attempt - with a three inch rise, although with knife pleats. Why not go the whole hog and commission a short run to your exact specifications? Colours and size of the sett would be down to you. I did exactly that and got a run of single width with a herringbone selvedge as well. Minimum order was ten metres, but with a likeminded chum involved I was able to have only the eight metres I needed. I’d imagine that any decent kilt maker could undertake the type of pleats you want and maybe could also take advantage of trade prices for the tartan to reduce the cost a bit? Certainly, Paul Henry in the UK could do everything you wanted and there are some examples of military style box pleating on his Facebook pages - scroll down to July of this year: https://www.facebook.com/paulhenryki...672549/?type=3

[ShaunMaxwell]

Tobus:

I think that will look great... Curious to see how dark a colorway and how large a sett size is available. I like the idea of the green waistband as well.

I had my Smith kilt (ancient colors) pleated to the red strip and love the effect:



It has a large set size, as can be seen from the front (notice that there's only a single red stripe on the front apron!).



Can't wait to see how this one turns out!

SM

[Tarheel]

I think this is a great idea. Go forth!

[Tobus]

StevieR, thanks for the pointer to Paul Henry. Any other makers out there who can do it in the regimental style? Keltoi used to make them, but only in a limited range of tartans, and I don't think John Hart is still working. I seem to recall that Steve Ashton works on regimental kilts for repairs, but I don't see that he offers them as regular builds. I guess I should enquire with him. Does Barb Tewksbury do regimental kilts?

I've done a custom weave before. The price and wait are not ideal, so it wouldn't be my first choice. But as a last resort, I suppose it's an option that could still be on the table. I'd like a really heavy cloth, though, and DC Dalgliesh is on the lighter side. Really, I'd like a 22 oz hard tartan, but that's apparently not possible.

[StevieR]

Yes, eight months or so for my tartan. I thought it worth the wait though. House of Edgar might be your best bet then - they produce “Regimental “ weight cloth and I know they have woven to order before, also I believe they will leave the cloth “in the grease” if you’d like. I’ve no idea what their minimum run might be though.

[Tobus]

Again, thanks StevieR! That's getting me closer to some realistic options. It looks like their regimental weight cloth is 17-18oz and is of course only available in a few regimental tartans. Oddly enough, their "heavyweight" 16oz clan tartan offerings don't even include Colquhoun. They only have Colquhoun in a 13oz cloth. Doesn't matter, though - I'd be looking at a special weave for the regimental weight anyway. I'd probably have to work with a kiltmaker first and let them handle the order with the weaver to get pricing. If there's a ridiculously large minimum run, it might kill the whole idea.

I suppose I need to refamiliarise myself with the technical details of the selvedge too. As I recall, my Ancient Colquhoun in Lochcarron Strome has a tuck selvedge. My Reproduction Colquhoun from DC Dalgliesh has a natural "kilting" selvedge that's sort of wavy-looking. A herringbone selvedge appeals to me, just for the sake of being different, but I'm not sure which weavers offer that type.

Lots to think about!

[Tobinn]

Yes, eight months or so for my tartan. I thought it worth the wait though. House of Edgar might be your best bet then - they produce “Regimental “ weight cloth and I know they have woven to order before, also I believe they will leave the cloth “in the grease” if you’d like. I’ve no idea what their minimum run might be though.

What does "in the grease mean"? I've seen in referenced here at the forum once before. I did a quick google search and now know more than ever about the movie "Grease" and how to get grease stains out of clothing but not, I think, what I was looking for.

[Guthrumironhead]

Here is my Guthrie modern, to illustrate a similar effect to what you're aiming for, though with knife pleats. This one is pleated to the double red line, but you get the idea. It also shows how the red pops next to the modern colors darker green, blue and black of the 16 oz. Locharron cloth.

Guthrie Mod to stripe.jpg

[Tobus]

What does "in the grease mean"? I've seen in referenced here at the forum once before. I did a quick google search and now know more than ever about the movie "Grease" and how to get grease stains out of clothing but not, I think, what I was looking for.

It means cloth that is not finished (washed, pressed, etc.) after weaving.