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  1. #1
    Stoff's Avatar
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    Lining question??

    Ok Folks,

    I am getting prepared to build a leather Peitean/Waistcoat. I have worked up my pattern. I have decided on the clothing weight leather I want to use. Now my question is what would you recommend for lining? I am trying to decide between cotton, silk and linen. I have all three in my stash. Help!

    Thanks,
    Stoff

  2. #2
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    I have two thoughts here. If the leather is heavy/thicker a silk liner would would suffice. If a thinner leather is used a linen lining would keep the shape better to your vest. Leather will be hot when worn and a lining will be a good idea to protect your inner clothes (in case of tanned or colored fabric) from sweat or rain stains.

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  4. #3
    Stoff's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tarheel View Post
    I have two thoughts here. If the leather is heavy/thicker a silk liner would would suffice. If a thinner leather is used a linen lining would keep the shape better to your vest. Leather will be hot when worn and a lining will be a good idea to protect your inner clothes (in case of tanned or colored fabric) from sweat or rain stains.
    FYI, a clarification about the leather. The leather I am using is a thin, light weight, butter soft upholstery/clothing weight leather in a darkish, grayish green (see attached image).



    Thanks,
    Stoff
    Last edited by Stoff; 31st December 18 at 03:44 PM.

  5. #4
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    The name of the lining found in most jackets and vests is "Bemberg". It is a cellulose product from cotton. So basically Rayon.
    Steve Ashton
    Forum Owner

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  7. #5
    Stoff's Avatar
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    Decision made

    Well I have come to a decision about my lining. I was thinking that since my leather is as light weight as it is I could stand to use a little heavier lining than might otherwise be used. And with trying to stay with natural materials that I already have in my fabric stash, I decided to go with a medium/heavy linen that I got when my mom passed. I also got the piping material that almost exactly matches the linen. I am tryingto stick as close as possible to natural material a matter of comfort, most natural materials breathe better than man made materials. So here we go; dark gray green leather, dark gold linen lining, and dark gold piping (marigold 95# paracord with the inner cord removed).



    Thanks,
    Stoff

  8. #6
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    Chris, I think those colors are stellar together. I believe you will be pleased with that weight of your lining cloth.

    I have a test for you to try. Take a tiny piece of your leather and sew a tiny piece of the lining fabric to it. Soak that in a brine (lightly salted) mix for a few hours. Let dry, to see if you get any bleeding of colors transferred from one to the other.

    I have a tan leather vest that is 20+ years old (I'm an old biker). The liner is brown silk. The stains from my sweat, beer, oil and other splashes have not effected the lining color nor has the brown darkened the outside. The discoloration of my vest is from neglect in cleaning only. I would not like to see your vest discolor due to dye transfer.

    Keep us posted. Bobby

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  10. #7
    Stoff's Avatar
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    OMG! started on cutting out the peitean. After cutting out the leather shell I grabbed the ling material that I thought was linen. While unfolding it I discovered that it is finer than I thought and much softer. It is not linen, it is raw silk! Now to decide if I really want to use it it or look for something else in the stash.

    Stoff

  11. #8
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    OMG indeed. Is the silk in your stock a color you can/will choose as a replacement? If your new vest is to be used in colder weather more often, go with your last choice of linen lining. I wouldn't want overall stiffness (until broken in properly) make the vest uncomfortable.

    Please don't let my questions or suggestions stop you from going forward. As a "cheap seat observer" I don't mean to distract from your success.

  12. #9
    Stoff's Avatar
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    I decided to go ahead and use the raw silk. it is the exact right color and I have plenty (7 yards) after cutting out the the peitean/waistcoat lining. I will probably make new shirts for the wife and I with the rest.

    Stoff

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