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  1. #1
    Join Date
    26th November 18
    Central Pennsylvania, USA
    0 Post(s)
    0 Thread(s)

    Making the Best of a Tat Situation

    Due to budget constraints this year, I had to settle for a cheap Pakistani-made Argyll jacket for the time being, but I'm going to improve it as much as I can. It actually isn't as bad as I was expecting, given the dragging they get on here. The fabric is a decent weight, but it's a bit coarse/stiff (hoping a good steaming and/or dry cleaning will help that). Even getting a 52 Short, I need to shorten the sleeves by about 3-4 inches before I can wear it. Thankfully the cuffs are separate self-contained pieces, so I just need to remove them (took one off last night), shorten the sleeves, and reattach them. I was afraid I'd have to mess around trying to extend the pintucks and recut the square notch. If I have time before Burns Night, I might add darts at the sides to take it in slightly around the lower chest/upper stomach area (it's more barrel-shaped than I am).

    After the Burns Dinner, I plan on replacing the typical square chrome buttons with some round ones. Surprisingly, the existing buttons on the cuffs and pocket flaps are attached with rings through the shanks and aren't sewn on, but the holes aren't stitched around. So I'll have to do that as well to keep them from fraying. The three large buttons (epaulets and jacket front) and the five small buttons on the waistcoat are sewn on.

    Small buttons on jacket cuffs, pocket flaps, and waistcoat probably being replaced with one of these two options:

    Large buttons on front of jacket and epaulets probably being replaced with one of these (unless I find something else I like better):

    Does anyone have any suggestions for how to make the buttons easy to remove/reattach without having the shanks the whole way through the cuffs/sleeves (don't want them scratching against my forearms) or the whole way through the jacket/waistcoat (don't want them catching on the waistcoat/shirt beneath)?

    For the cuffs, I'm thinking that if I leave a small hole in the seam (hidden behind the gauntlet), that I can probably manipulate the rings through the cloth to remove/attach them and use the small hole to extract/insert the loose rings. Alternatively, I might put holes through the sleeve too and just keep part of the sleeve lining unattached so I can get to the rings. I definitely want to figure this out before reattaching the cuffs and sleeve lining, so I don't have to remove them again.

    I'm not worried about the pocket flap buttons, they can go the whole way through if I don't feel like messing around with leaving openings in the lining.

    For the big buttons on the epaulets and jacket front, I'll probably just open a few inches of the bottom lining so I can reach my hand up between the outer layer and the lining to get to the backs.

    The waistcoat presents a bit more of a challenge. I could open a hole in the bottom of the lining like I'll probably do with the jacket, but that could be more obvious since the lining of the waistcoat goes to the bottom edge, while the lining in the jacket attaches about an inch up from the bottom. I was thinking that I might just attach a strip of fabric (I'll have matching scrap fabric from shortening the sleeves that should suffice) on top, bottom, and down one side to hide the button rings.
    Verbing weirds language.

  2. The Following 2 Users say 'Aye' to TheGratefulNed For This Useful Post:

  3. #2
    Join Date
    5th August 14
    Oxford, Mississippi
    8 Post(s)
    0 Thread(s)
    I think you intuitions are correct with your plan. Working the loops through the outer fabric and between the lining is time consuming yet gives a superior finished product.

    I have seen buttons with loops pass through the outer fabric and a piece of felt (the felt sewn to the outer material from the inside) with the lining hiding that construction. These button were never used for closure, just decoration, without the dangle or flapping button look.

  4. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Tarheel For This Useful Post:

  5. #3
    Join Date
    7th September 14
    1 Post(s)
    0 Thread(s)
    You certainly sound to have a knack for such things. Kudos.

    For the buttons: my military tunics had an additional strip of lining on the inside of the chest panel. Double thickness and sewn the entire length of the edge. This kept the button rings from causing any issues yet easily allowed the buttons to be removed from the rings. When I modified the shoulder board button to pass through the tunic i used the same method to form a “flap” so that the ring didnt catch in the shirt/epaulet underneath. I would imagine a similar method would work for the sleeve, protecting your shirt but making button removal relatively convenient.

    I too have been contemplating being able to change out my buttons. They are all ring attached, with the sleeve buttons under the sewn in lining. Current consideration is a very fine zipper placed into the liner seam, or location of choice, to allow access yet keep liner integrity during wear.

  6. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Taskr For This Useful Post:

  7. #4
    Join Date
    23rd April 12
    Eatern Ontario, Canada
    0 Post(s)
    0 Thread(s)
    I have to admit that upon reading the thread title I thought you woke up after a rough night with a butterfly tramp stamp and were looking for opinions on how to transform it into a pictish boar , celtic cross or some such.

    Still, a punny title. Cheers


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