white wing collar tuxedo shirt with pleats

[figheadair]

Here's my (well researched) ten cents.
Wing collars are traditional, in fact, they are the most traditional option. The issue is that traditional wing collar shirts are not the limp attached collar pleated shirts of today, a traditional evening shirt would have a stiff plain bib and detachable collar, the collar would be heavily starched, and at least 2.25in tall. Here is and example of a retailer who still sells the traditional shirts, they also sell the collars here.
If you don't want to wear a stiff 2.25in high collar, then the only other option is the attached turndown collar with a pleated or soft bib shirt.

Good link. One of course needs to bear in mind that traditional is about a descriptive as fruit. Context is everything. In this context I guess we're really taking about the last 80 or so years.

[JCameron]

Good link. One of course needs to bear in mind that traditional is about a descriptive as fruit. Context is everything. In this context I guess we're really taking about the last 80 or so years.

Fair enough—traditional is certainly a vague term. But it is worth pointing out that the the attached wing collar was first made in the 1960s (at which point it still would have been an appropriate height and somewhat stiff), and it was only in the 1970s that the wing collar became short, limp, and attached to pleated shirts.

[plaid preacher]

Arnold, I apologize being late to the dance, but my advice would be to ask your unit Adjutant/RSM what is the standard.

There are a number of factors that we all must recognize. One of the things you will find is we wear what we have. When I was attending mess dinners I wore a wing collared, pleated shirt because at that time, that was the fashion. In the intervening years, they have fallen from favour.

Below is a photo of the Highland senate from this spring. I note there are many rolled collars, especially in the front row, which should be the commanding officers. I have also seen a photo of the CO of the Essex and Kent Scottish and I note he wears a plain front rolled collar.

[imrichmond]

Here's my (well researched) ten cents.
Wing collars are traditional, in fact, they are the most traditional option. The issue is that traditional wing collar shirts are not the limp attached collar pleated shirts of today, a traditional evening shirt would have a stiff plain bib and detachable collar, the collar would be heavily starched, and at least 2.25in tall. Here is and example of a retailer who still sells the traditional shirts, they also sell the collars here.
If you don't want to wear a stiff 2.25in high collar, then the only other option is the attached turndown collar with a pleated or soft bib shirt.

This posting takes me back many years to my days as an officer cadet (midshipman) in the Royal Canadian Navy's University Naval Training Division. The detached, heavily starched wing collar was obligatory for our mess dinners and formal balls. After an evening of wearing one of these things, starched by a local Chinese laundry to the point of appearing to be made of porcelain, we would usually have a tender, red ring around our necks, making it appear that we had been recently hanged. In those days, even our fold-down collars were detached, required to be heavily starched and generally worn with a Spiffy, a double pointed, springy thing held in place by the tie's knot and intended to keep the collar's points pointing straight down in all circumstances. Happily, these instruments of torture appear largely to have disappeared in recent years, perhaps because of the difficulty of finding a laundry capable of starching the collars to the required level of unforgiving stiffness.

Along with the wing collar, we were required to wear also a hand-tied bow tie. Anyone caught wearing a pre-tied tie was required to buy drinks for the entire mess. This happened only once during my time, but the culprit, ironically enough, was our CO.

[plaid preacher]

Imrichmond - in that vein, when I was first in ministry the standard clergy collar was a celluloid collar worn with with a shirt or rabat. Alas, over the years all of the makers of celluloid collars have closed up shop. A couple of years ago, I started wearing collars which I have to starch, and had to learn how to do that. I find the startch collars to be much more comfortable - but they do require extra care each month once they have been laundered, to startch and press.

[MacInLaw]

What a timely and interesting thread. I say it is timely, because I just purchased a new tuxedo shirt yesterday (without having the benefit of reading this threat). I did however have the chance to consider much of the debate and opinions shared here. Here is where I ended up:

10+ years ago when I purchased my mess kit (Royal Canadian Navy), it was de rigour to have a pleated front wing collar tux shirt. I bought one, and I was fashionable. Some of the old salts still had fold down collars or plain fronts but anyone who had bought a shirt within the previous 10 or so years had the same shirt I did. Now that variation was not because of uniform regulations: the regulations called for a "tuxedo shirt" without specifying specifically whether pleats or what collar was necessary. The variation had to do with fashion trends.

Now this summer, I've been invited to a black tie wedding. Having purchased a civilian tuxedo for the occasion, I wanted to know what shirt I should wear with it. Not trusting the Internet wit large, I turned to the people I trusted the most: my former ship mates. I figured these guys still wear black tie at least a few times a year (far more than any one else I know well). Rather than call my friend, the Cox'n (RSM), I did what any self-respecting Man-of-Fashion would do… I looked up recent pictures of the young, handsome Killicks (Corporals) in their bib and tuckers. Turns out, these guys who (i) still have the physique and bravado to want to look good (b) have wives and girlfriends who make sure they dress well and (c) have bought their kit within the recent past all are wearing plain front, roll collared shits.

Guess what I ordered?

Ultimately, I think the style of shirt one wears is a matter of fashion-- and fashion is subject to the taste of wearer, the time, and place.