Buckles or Laces?

[230Ball]

I was admiring the thread regarding choice of shirt for black tie military events and wanted to add a question without hijacking the thread. Are buckle brogues acceptable footwear with the Prince Charlie jacket or are they reserved for the doublet? Also, I understand that white hose is for weddings and black is for funerals, so is matching my hose to a base color of my family tartan a sound choice?
I tend to over-think these things, especially in this era of personal choice, but having spent three decades in uniform my mind is somewhat calibrated along these lines or at least searching for a standard somewhere. Although I'm in the States and relatively comforted that most will not know or care for the finer details, I always want to be armed with an answer if challenged.

[Tarheel]

What tartan do you wear? A darker hose would seem more appropriate for a formal affair and matching (dark blue for example in my own family cloth) would feel right to me. I would also consider red flashes (a relationship to military service) if I were going in your stead (as I am also a veteran). I hope our Canadian friends give suggestions for diced hose as fitting for a formal event, even if it might not be your forte.

As far as buckles, I think that may be a personal choice. Do you have shoes with buckles and are they comfortable? A good set of spit-shined leathers fit all formal events also.

Just my thoughts that I hope ease any angst you are having.

[Jock Scot]

Good questions. Bearing in mind that ultimately we civilians are free to wear what we like , however there are certain requirements with our attire, if we want to blend in quietly with others for any given event. And of course wearing the kilt on most occasions——- particularly outwith Scotland——- instantly raises the profile. So you are right to be aware of one’s attire.

Black hose for funerals and white hose for weddings sounds perfectly logical and if that is what you are comfortable with , fine! BUT, that’s not what many experienced kilt wearers actually do! Many choose not to wear white hose, ever and I think probably the same applies for black hose as well. Sombre greens or reds for funerals and brighter greens or reds for weddings are often the choice these days, although Weddings do allow for other cheerful colours and colour combinations( such as coloured hose tops)too.

As a rule of thumb, black lace up shoes are a safer bet for any event and it’s best to save the buckles and diced hose for the rare ultra formal events. Oh, and matching colours to the kilt or anything else is not a consideration either! Over dressing is best avoided on almost all occasions when wearing the kilt if one wants to dress to best effect.

[230Ball]

Gentlemen,
Thank you for your advice and insight! You both brought up a point that I forgot to mention in my original post, and that is to avoid being flashy. I have not yet purchased any ghillie brogues or brogues with buckles for this upcoming event, and may just stick with high-polished oxfords.
Coincidentally, I was considering dark blue hose with red flashes (my tartan is almost identical to that in the margins of this web page). Jock, would you suggest another color if blue is too much?

[Jock Scot]

If you like the colour then wear the hose. I don't know the tartan that you are going to wear, but if its mainly blue and apparently it is, then perhaps you might want to choose another colour rather than blue hose? Maroon/claret perhaps?

[kingandrew]

I agree with Jock that you will likely look better by choosing hose with a different color than the main ones in your tartan. Maroon/claret hose look great with nearly everything, without looking bland.

I have a pair of patent-leather oxfords my father used to wear with his tuxedo for black tie affairs. I have worn these with the kilt and Prince Charlie with no negative comment. Pretty much any decent black dress shoes will work just as well.

Enjoy your event!

Andrew

[230Ball]

I used to wear patent-leather oxfords with my mess dress, which is probably the safest bet going forward. I also like the idea of contrasting hose color, especially claret. What color flash do you recommend with blue tartan and claret hose?

[Jock Scot]

If its of any help to your thinking , in over 70 years of wearing the kilt I have never worn a pair of those "dreadful" ghillie brogues. Save your money and buy a pair of proper stout black leather brogues for day wear and keep your shiny black oxfords for formal evening wear.

[230Ball]

Thanks, Jock! In fact, my original choice of buckle brogues was to avoid the laced ghillie brogues.

[McMurdo]

I purchased a pair of Ghillie Brogues some years ago & never wear them. I prefer my Buckle Brogues even with a PC or even an Argyll jacket.


Here are a few photos to illustrate.

With a Doublet


With a Prince Charlie


With an Argyll


I am aware that this is not strictly following the rules, however I do prefer them to the Ghillies.