wanting check tweed jacket

**OC Richard** · 26th June 19, 07:44 AM

I've often said on these boards that I love check tweed jackets, and that I favour acquiring vintage jackets, but that due to my size (50) finding vintage check tweed kilt jackets is virtually impossible.

That being the case, I've been looking at check tweed fabric. I've found one tweed from a major supplier (Marton Mills) that I really like, and it's in a nice 15oz weight.

https://martonmills.com/product/multicheck/

Having found the fabric, what would be my next move? Who would you recommend to make the jacket?

I would especially be interested if anyone has used that particular fabric.

I believe that it was Steve Ashton who had posted about his visit a while back to the small firm that makes most of the kilt jackets sold by various shops. I suppose I could try contacting them and see what route they recommend. (EDIT: just tried their given phone number, and a contact email I found online, and neither bore results.)

**Father Bill** · 26th June 19, 08:07 AM

Either that, Richard, or Steve himself - I really admire his "Kilt Kut" jackets.

**OC Richard** · 26th June 19, 08:15 AM

Thanks I will look into that, the cut of that jacket Steve is wearing looks perfect.

**Tobus** · 26th June 19, 09:07 AM

I'd also check with Rocky at USA Kilts. I know he has a supplier that makes jackets, and he deals with Marton Mills. Shawn Maxwell had a tartan jacket & waistcoat made by them that he's very happy with.

That's a nice tweed pattern, BTW!

**Steve Ashton** · 26th June 19, 10:07 AM

The small shop that I visited does not sell retail. So contacting them directly is out.

But Rocky and I both order from them so should be able, to have what you want, made to your specifications.

Just decide what style you want.

Many people do not realize that this same maker does a specific jacket cut for pipers. If cut from Barathea they use a fabric with a slight stretch to it under the left arm.
If cut from one of the Marton Mills fabrics they add a small bit of extra fabric under the left arm.

This means that, for example, if you like the styling of the Kilt Kut Suit Coat, you could have it done with the pipers left arm hole.

And as you are already into a Made to Measure jacket due to custom fabric, you should be able to specify almost anything else you would like. For example - Do you want epaulets or not? Do you want a third opera ticket pocket in your vest? Do you want a specific button style? etc.

**FossilHunter** · 26th June 19, 04:32 PM

Scotweb carries a number of tweeds listed as Cairngorme for their made to measure jacket and vest.

https://www.scotweb.co.uk/products/m...cket-and-vest/

If it is from the same supplier, it's possible they could use the code from the MM website and make one in your chosen tweed even if it's not listed on their site.

**OC Richard** · 27th June 19, 08:08 PM

Originally Posted by Steve Ashton

Many people do not realize that this same maker does a specific jacket cut for pipers. If cut from Barathea they use a fabric with a slight stretch to it under the left arm.

Here's a blurb about the ones RG Hardie (St Kilda Group) sells:

"...relevant to bass and tenor drummers...the innovative Piper Flex Jacket launched in 2009 features a Wool Lycra back that stretches for ease of movement whilst performing."

Though called "Piper Flex" it's actually more useful to tenor drummers and Drum Majors, who need full range of motion from both arms.

BTW both arms need to stretch for pipers too; Strathclyde Police Pipe Band had, at the same time, four pipers who played the pipes under the right arm.

**Benning Boy** · 27th June 19, 10:21 PM

The simple unadorned Kilt Kut Suit coat is my recommendation. I really like mine. It works with a kilt but doesn't look too kilty, if you know what I mean. The faux horn buttons didn't work for me and I had them replaced with plastic suit coat buttons of a shade that almost disappears against the charcoal fabric. It's a very versatile garment. Made of your prefered fabric it would be a sharp look.

**OC Richard** · 28th June 19, 05:37 AM

Thanks everyone!! Much to consider.

I'm in discussions with St Kilda (Scotland) who also regularly use Marton Mills tweeds.

The St Kilda representative says that their jackets are made in-house in their Glasgow workshop.

Like the English shop, they make kilt jackets with 1-button, 2-button, and 3-button fronts. The 3-button (which I have seen some sellers call the "Wallace" jacket) has a vintage look, higher-buttoning with smaller lapels, and I'll probably go with that.