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  1. #1
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    upper flapped pockets on Argyll jackets

    In Traditional Civilian Highland Dress, that is, the civilian Highland Dress as it was (in effect) codified in the early 20th century (and has remained remarkably stable since) the lower pockets on Argyll jackets have flaps while the upper pocket does not.

    In the full Argyll style jacket the flaps on the lower pockets are scalloped and have three welts (suggesting bound buttonholes) and three nonfunctional buttons.

    Interesting how often one sees such flaps on the upper pocket(s) of Argyll jackets, in the Victorian period. One wonders why this feature fell out of use in the 20th century.

    In any case, here's a nice vintage photo I just acquired off Ebay. The gent is wearing a lovely check tweed jacket with the upper pockets having the elaborate flaps nowadays reserved for the lower pockets. Note the rakish angle of these flaps.



    (The subject's left knee and hose turnover cuff appear odd. Have they been crudely retouched?)



    Here are other examples.

    This upper pocket is placed lower, not uncommon then. It would be nice to be able to see the pocket treatment on the other side of his jacket.



    In this one the flap may be a dummy placed under an ordinary open pocket.



    What are far more common are jackets with plain flapped pockets above and below.

    This gent has no less than five flapped pockets on the front of his jacket (with the addition of a ticket pocket)



    That just might be a ticket pocket too:



    These men seem to make do with four pockets:





    Last edited by OC Richard; 27th June 19 at 04:19 AM.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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  3. #2
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    Rrichard

    (The subject's left knee and hose turnover cuff appear odd. Have they been crudely retouched?)

    Perhaps a prosthetic limb or photo retouched to display limb missing from original. Great photo's. You have some of the best stuff.
    Last edited by Jacques; 29th September 19 at 07:11 PM.
    This space for rent.

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  5. #3
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    I notice that the length of most of the jackets is much longer ( compared to the sleeves), than is common today, where the sleeves are generally longer than the body of the jacket. Many of these could almost be Saxon jackets.
    waulk softly and carry a big schtick

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  7. #4
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    To my eye, many of those pockets appear to be just fashionable extras with no real pocket behind them, let's face it using them to carry stuff would not look very attractive due to bulging.

    That said the two below are definetly using them to carry bits and bobs and whilst practical I wouldn't class them as "going out " clothes, but that may just be because fashions have changed.

    Quote Originally Posted by OC Richard View Post
    In Traditional Civilian Highland Dress, that is, the civilian Highland Dress as it was.

    These men seem to make do with four pockets:





  8. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhockin View Post
    I notice that the length of most of the jackets is much longer ( compared to the sleeves), than is common today, where the sleeves are generally longer than the body of the jacket. Many of these could almost be Saxon jackets.
    Yes indeed, I do believe that many men would wear the same jacket with kilt and trousers.

    It's mainly due to the Victorian style of buttoning a jacket only at the top button and the jacket swinging open in an inverted "V" which allowed long jackets to be worn without hiding the sporran. Many of those Victorian jackets are obviously cut to hang open that way, and probably couldn't be buttoned all the way down.

    Modern Saxon jackets are cut to hang straight down in front and cover the sporran.

    In any case here's just about the longest jacket worn with Highland Dress I have a photo of. If he had just buttoned the top button the jacket would hang open more and not cover the sporran. BTW note that his jacket has four patch pockets plus a flapped ticket pocket. Also note the thing often seen in Victorian photos, the front apron of the kilt being rather narrow and the pleated portion coming around both sides.

    Last edited by OC Richard; 3rd October 19 at 05:37 AM.
    Proud Mountaineer from the Highlands of West Virginia; son of the Revolution and Civil War; first Europeans on the Guyandotte

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