Quality Kilts 101: Pleat Quality

[Jimmy Carbomb]

OUT OF PM's AND ONTO THE SITE... let's get out of the "you look cool" mode and get to some serious kilt talk. Quality, tartans, etc.

Todays lesson, kids, is on "Wandering Pleats". Due to the emails asking what that is, here's a drawing to explain it...



Notice that the thing on the left is showing pleats that go in and out. That's a sign that pleats are not being sewn evenly, either in line or tension. When you're browsing for a kilt, make sure that the company posts pleat pictures on a human model.

On the right, is a great look at a well-made kilt. The hand-sewn traditional that I have is just like this. Check most pipe bands with the heavy Scottish hand-sewns, and you'll notice the difference.

This would be a GREAT place to post examples or questions on the pleats. Questions on YOUR kilt? Post it here so everyone can discuss it.

[Casey]

Great picture.

I also found some excellent photos actual kilts on people in "The Art of Kiltmaking"

I must say, though, that I'm not fussy about the white with black stripe material.

Casey

[Mychael Sporrano]

I am surely not using the proper terminology here, but hopefully you will understand what I am trying to convey.

Both of my wool, hand-sewn kilts have slivers of their bottom edge's tucked up and sewn to the body of the kilt in order to make the bottom edge run straight. Without close scrutiny of the bottom of the apron and its sides this is not noticeable.

When my first kilt arrived, a heavy weight single width Campbell of Argyll Weathered, I thought it was some sort of single width anomaly or possibly that it was sloppy workmanship. However, when my kilt of Kinloch Anderson manufacture also showed the same thing, I wondered if this is simply a necessary correction where making kilts is concerned.

??

Mychael

[Blu (Ontario)]

Hey Mychael,
Is it possible that your looking at the selvedge. My medium weight hand sewn has a selvedge section about 1/8 inch wide where the threads of the cloth are sewn back into themselves. The first time I looked at it I thought it was a hem. It was not. It is just the way it came off that particular loom.

[Colin]

I will get a picture of my 8 yard Bear kilt up as soon as I can. It is a GREAT example of why true craftsmanship takes more than a week. I have yet to see a Bear kilt made to measure that had any signs of a wondering pleat. Fro example check out Andrew's (thanks for being the guinea pig, buddy) pics from Bear's site http://www.bearkilts.com/coppingpg.html

Perfect pleating, and no sign of the "wandering pleat"

Great post Jimmy, I wondered when we would all stop kissing each other's butts and start being objective about where/who we all buy our kilts from, regardless of personal relationships.

I will only buy my poly/viscose kilts from Bear. why? because he and I are friends.......NO! It's beacuse he provides the best quality product in that material, and he gives his all to making each kilt that he sells. He is basing his selling on the quality of his product, not on the delivery time of his product. I have been victim to the 3 month wait, and the minute that I get that kilt on, I forget all about that long wait. I have the patience to wait for quality, and I will.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

...tucked up and sewn to the body of the kilt in order to make the bottom edge run straight.

GREAT post and example Mychael. Making a kilt that truly fits the waist and the drape is not easy. It takes little "here and theres" to make them taper to hug the body. There are MANY ways to do it, and that's the preferred method of the older kiltmakers. If you were to look at a traditional kilt from 50 years ago, it would have the exact same "tailorings". I, myself, own some of these, and they fit like a charm, and LOOK even better.

It's very easy to tuck and tack pleats. It's another thing entirely to pleat a kilt to where it will CUSTOM FIT a persons hips. That takes time, experience and a load of pride. When someone wonders why the hand-sewn Scottish traditionals are so much more expensive... that's why. You're paying for quality.

A truly fine made kilt is more than some straps and tartan. It's the process that goes into the manufacturing of it, and the care that's shown in the finished product. The straight pleat line and the LACK OF WANDERING PLEATS is the easiest way to spot a worthy purchase.

[Andrew]

Hey Colin, thank you for using me as the "guinea pig". That is not the best picture of my Bear 8(12) yard Royal Stewart, but it does show how when a time and skill are both used a very nice pleating job with PV looks great. You can barly see the pleats in the Kilt because they are all so prefectly placed and stiched, but when this kilt gets swinging it's a thing of beauty! As for the rest of my PV Kilts(all of which are from Bear) I have never had any issues with the pleating, they are all beautiful. As for the length of time I had to wait for the Kilt, well lets just say we all fall victim to long wait but it's well worth ever minute of it!

[Jimmy Carbomb]

I must say, though, that I'm not fussy about the white with black stripe material.

All right you...

That's the "O, Brother Where Art Thou" Prison Tartan.

[Hamish]

..................................
Both of my wool, hand-sewn kilts have slivers of their bottom edge's tucked up and sewn to the body of the kilt in order to make the bottom edge run straight. Without close scrutiny of the bottom of the apron and its sides this is not noticeable.

.............................

Mychael, if it is of any comfort to you, all of my 26 Scottish-tailored kilts and breacans have that short length of 'turn up' stitched at the bottom of the first pleat to the left of the front apron, no matter from which kiltmaker they came, or whether they were tailored in 1973 or 2004.

As far as I know this is done to prevent that part of the fabric showing below the apron. I have previously asked other kilt-wearing friends about this and their kilts are similarly tailored.

It would appear to be a recognised part of the traditional kiltmaking process. I'll ask Howie Nicholsby about it when I next see him.

[Jimmy Carbomb]

Hamish, I was wondering where you have been! This is just the type of thread that your vast collection will help.

Thanks so much for chiming-in! It's appreciated.