Is Standardization of a Clans' Tartan Fabric Important or Not?

[Braw Cathairneach]

Can any of our SME’s please opine on tartan fabric standardization? Are variances in color and pattern between different mills an issue for clan tartan kilts? Should clans recommend, sanction, or recognize any particular mill as providing a clan standard? My quest includes a similar query to the Tartan Authority. Hopefully a reply is pending. My quest also includes requesting sample tartan fabric swatches from different mills for a comparative evaluation. It would be terrific to decide if or how important standardization of color and pattern may or may not be from various mills.

[Steve Ashton]

It is possible that you may be overthinking this.

What determines a Tartan is the thread count. So many yarns of one color followed by so many yarns of another color.

A thread count can sometimes be doubled or halved to produce a specific Sett size. But the relationship will usually be kept recognizable.

The letter "G" may be used for green but it is seldom that a listing will specify a specific color of shade of green

Each mill may have slightly different dye lots and even one dye lot may be slightly different from the next run from the same mill..

One mill may produce a Tartan in a specific color range to produce a specific shading such as "Ancient, "Weathered", "Reproduction" or "Muted" but they are usually accepted as the same Tartan.

For example - All of these are accepted as Black Watch.

Modern colorway.


Ancient colorway. (also Cambell)


Weathered colorway.


Dress version.


When put together you can easily see that these are all the same thread count.


Tartan is a very fascinating art form but there are few rules and few conventions that are universal.

Yes Tartans have names. We have to call them something. But in some cases the names were given to the design for no discernible reason. Some designs have been adopted and we accept that adoption. And in some cases there are Tartans which carry a Highland Clan name that have been rejected or denied.

And then there is the very interesting case of The Vestiarium Scoticum.

Published in 1842... "The Vestiarium was seized upon by Clan Chiefs and the weaving industry with equal fervour. Very few thought seriously to question the claims and it wasn't until almost 140 years later that an analytical study of the book was undertaken. The conclusion was that talented and ingenious though they were, the Sobieskis had perpetrated a fascinating and monumental hoax upon a gullible society and the vast majority of 'old' clan tartans came only from the fertile imagination of Charles"... Sobieski Stuart...
D C Stewart and J C Thompson's Scotland's Forged Tartans says: "Despite the misgivings of a few, but potent, authorities, these tartans were eagerly accepted by a public desperate to wear its "authentic" clan tartans and a trade equally desperate to sell them and they have remained with us, highly respected and totally unauthenticated. . . . beyond all doubt, the Vestiarium and its background material are complete forgeries."

[figheadair]

QUOTE=Braw Cathairneach;1377437]Can any of our SME’s please opine on tartan fabric standardization? Are variances in color and pattern between different mills an issue for clan tartan kilts? Should clans recommend, sanction, or recognize any particular mill as providing a clan standard? My quest includes a similar query to the Tartan Authority. Hopefully a reply is pending. My quest also includes requesting sample tartan fabric swatches from different mills for a comparative evaluation. It would be terrific to decide if or how important standardization of color and pattern may or may not be from various mills.[/QUOTE]

Your email to the STA will come to me but as I'm here.

Colour and pattern are obviously two different things. Colours; red, blue, green etc., are standardised, you are referring to the shade/hue, which are not. In historical terms, there has never been standardisation of shades or setting and some variation has always occurred because of local variations and preferences.

In terms of the pattern, which the overall impression (proportions) should be the same there have always been adjustments to fit the circumstances, for example; the setting is often reduced and the proportions altered for light weight material used for things such as ties. Conversely, weaving a tartan carpet might require a different configuration.

There is no standardisation, to try and impose it would be unworkable and would detract from the beauty and tradition of tartan. Other than pipebands, the military etc., there is no requirement for uniformity, tartan and highland dress should be able personal preference and individual taste.

[Tobus]

Should clans recommend, sanction, or recognize any particular mill as providing a clan standard?

Should they? No! I wouldn't want to imagine a future where a clan chief recognises only one particular tartan motif for his clan, and everyone wears a kilt that looks the exact same as if they were a pipe band. Part of the joy of wearing a clan tartan is that it is recognisable as being that clan's tartan, but allows individual expression. I always love seeing photos of clan gatherings where there is a wide variety of colour differences, sett sizes, and of course kilt construction differences that make each wearer's kilt unique to him.

[bodhran4me]

I recall years ago looking at the Colquhoun website for 'recognized' tartans as I wanted to have a kilt made from Dalgliesh's reproduction tartan. At that time the Colquhoun Chief stated on the website that the modern and ancient tartans were the only ones recognized but did not make any mention of different mills. Since that time , the website has changed significantly . One of the changes is that there is no mention of 'recognized ' tartans and his wife is pictured wearing the reproduction colours.



I guess, even if you do standardise something, standards change.

[Braw Cathairneach]

The topic was being researched as it was brought to my attention as the clan web guy to set the matter straight for new members. Your collective SME is thoughtful and rational. The technical, historical, and human nature aspects of your collective rational shows that it is imprudent to attempt standardization. I've learned something from all'ya'all. Now I ha'e some corrective action to contemplate and implement. Thank all of you for your time and SME.

[Steve Ashton]

Excuse me, but what is SME?

[Braw Cathairneach]

Excuse me, but what is SME?

My apologies for using the acronym SME. SME is subject matter expertise.

[jhockin]

Excuse me, but what is SME?

One website, of acronyms, suggests “Subject-matter expert” , might be the implied meaning. ( though it also gives numerous other possibilities. I DO wish folks would define the acronym they use).