X Marks the Scot - An on-line community of kilt wearers.

   X Marks Partners - (Go to the Partners Dedicated Forums )
USA Kilts website Freedom Kilts website Scotweb websiten Burnetts and Struth website Celtic Croft website
Xmarks advertising information Celtic Corner website Xmarks advertising information Houston Kiltmakers Xmarks advertising information

User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    7th February 08
    Location
    Abbotsford, BC, Canada
    Posts
    730
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Kiltmaking using Harris Tweed: rip or cut double width?

    My next DIY kilt will be made from a double width length of Harris Tweed ( which I've had for a few years now).
    I would really hate to ruin this fabric, so: anyone that has made a (Harris) Tweed kilt: did you rip the double wide into single width, or cut the fabric?
    waulk softly and carry a big schtick

  2. #2
    Join Date
    30th November 04
    Location
    Deansboro, NY
    Posts
    3,230
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I would cut it - it's pretty thick to rip. And honestly? I always cut tartan too. I find that when I rip it, no matter how hard I yank, I always get little pulls perpendicular to the ripped edge, and I don't the look of it. And it's easy to cut tartan parallel to the color stripes, so I'm happier with the result when I cut it.

    Also - does it have a selvedge? The tweed that I've worked with doesn't have a selvedge (although sometimes you have to look really carefully to see that it doesn't), and I've had to put a hem in it. The hem actually presses fine, and it's not too bulky in a box pleated kilt. I did make an 8-yard knife-pleated kilt last summer in tweed and had to put a hem in it because it didn't have a selvedge. I was very worried that it would be obnoxiously bulky at the bottom, and it was actually pretty bulky to feel, but it looked fine. And the customer said it was fine to wear. Todd - do you have a pic you can post?
    Last edited by Barb T; 12th January 20 at 07:50 AM.
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  3. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Barb T For This Useful Post:


  4. #3
    Join Date
    7th February 08
    Location
    Abbotsford, BC, Canada
    Posts
    730
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Thanks Barb; that confirms what I thought.
    waulk softly and carry a big schtick

  5. #4
    Join Date
    25th September 04
    Location
    Victoria, BC, Canada 1123.6536.5321
    Posts
    5,217
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'm a cutter.
    Steve Ashton
    www.freedomkilts.com
    Skype (webcam enabled) thewizardofbc
    I wear the kilt because:
    Swish + Swagger = Swoon.

  6. The Following User Says 'Aye' to The Wizard of BC For This Useful Post:


  7. #5
    Join Date
    3rd January 06
    Location
    Dorset, on the South coast of England
    Posts
    4,138
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    The feel and sound of sharp blades on wool fabric, particularly quality stuff - is quite heady, if that is the sort of thing which floats your boat.
    I presume to dictate to no man what he shall eat or drink or wherewithal he shall be clothed."
    -- The Hon. Stuart Ruaidri Erskine, The Kilt & How to Wear It, 1901.

  8. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Pleater For This Useful Post:


  9. #6
    Join Date
    16th June 15
    Location
    Madison Wisconsin
    Posts
    314
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Barb made my tweed kilt from a piece of 15 oz. wool tweed that I bought from Marton Mills. This one had a clean looking edge, but some sort of silver "guide" thread running along about 1" in from the edge. Some of their tweeds have it, others do not. It couldn't be removed, so we decided that the best way to hide it was by hemming the kilt. As far as I can tell, it doesn't seem to make much difference in the way the kilt hangs, swings or feels. Tweed fabric is not as hard or flat as tartan, but not so bulky as to be a problem. When worn, it seems to feel pretty similar to those made from heavyweight Dalgliesh tartan.

    My wife made me a matching waistcoat (tweed front and back). I also bought a small roll of brown, Barbour-style waxed cotton a while back, and another hunk of a brown wool tweed overcheck, with the intention of making myself a waxed cotton Inverness cape to go with the kilt and vest.

    In the past, I have often had no luck posting photos on this particular forum, so I'll try it and also post direct links to the photos in my Dropbox folder if it seems like they don't work.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/70e5kskrbm...kilt1.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/2kmsnkrqm69l8m7/tk2a.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/rtw3c7uulq7iisd/tk3a.jpg?dl=0
    Last edited by Todd Bradshaw; 13th January 20 at 03:35 PM.

  10. The Following 2 Users say 'Aye' to Todd Bradshaw For This Useful Post:


  11. #7
    Join Date
    30th November 04
    Location
    Deansboro, NY
    Posts
    3,230
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Smile

    In case you can't get to the DropBox photo, here's Todd's kilt, along with the vest that his wife made (she is an AMAZING tailor - you should see what she has sewn!!):



    This is an 8-yard, knife-pleated tweed kilt WITH A HEM! I would submit to you that, unless you were bold enough to actually feel the bottom of the kilt, you would never know it had a hem. And, wouldn't you say, this is definitely someone who can wear a kilt with panache and authority??
    Last edited by Barb T; 13th January 20 at 05:46 PM.
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  12. The Following 3 Users say 'Aye' to Barb T For This Useful Post:


  13. #8
    Join Date
    30th November 04
    Location
    Deansboro, NY
    Posts
    3,230
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by Todd Bradshaw View Post
    This one had a clean looking edge, but some sort of silver "guide" thread running along about 1" in from the edge.
    BTW - this silver thread didn't mark a selvedge, and it wasn't "behind" the selvedge. It was just put in in plain weave to keep the edge from raveling. So this fabric didn't actually have a selvedge.
    Kiltmaker, piper, and geologist (one of the few, the proud, with brains for rocks....
    Member, Scottish Tartans Authority
    Geology stuff (mostly) at http://people.hamilton.edu/btewksbu
    The Art of Kiltmaking at http://theartofkiltmaking.com

  14. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Barb T For This Useful Post:


Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

» Log in

User Name:

Password:

Not a member yet?
Register Now!
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.0