Kilt made from my fabric?

[BobCampbell]

Can you describe this fabric a little better please. Who wove it? Does it have a selvedge edge? Is It a Twill weave? The actual weight of 1 linear yard X 60 inches wide. (If you don't know this just list the total length and width along with the total weight of the full piece.

It was woven by DC Dagliesh, it is their standard 16oz wool tartan material. I don't know enough about fabric to tell you if it has a selvedge edge or if it is a twill weave.

[Katia]

Just wondering why they won’t make a kilt from a clients fabric?
I thought it was standard practice with any type of sewing , garment, not just a kilt.
I would understand if it wasn’t suitable fabric - I’ve said no to alterations or full garment makes for that reason.
But every tailor, seamstress, maker I’ve ever dealt with would use the customers fabric.

I suppose it may be a question of the quality of the fabric? It may be easier to say "sorry, no customer fabric" than to deal with having a customer give (or ship) them the fabric, and they then have to reject it ("I'm sorry sir/ma'am, but this 2 yards of flannel pajama fabric you picked up off the sale rack at Walmart is not suitable for a kilt...").

It was woven by DC Dagliesh, it is their standard 16oz wool tartan material. I don't know enough about fabric to tell you if it has a selvedge edge or if it is a twill weave.

You'll know a selvedge edge because it'll look "finished"-- it won't want to unravel like normal cut edges might (I'm sure one of our kiltmakers here has a photo). (ETA: I'm not that well-versed on tartan-fabric selvedges, since my kilt hasn't got one so I'm not sure I've ever seen one in person, but I believe the last picture in this post-- which you can zoom in on-- from another older thread shows the selvedge nicely, or at least it looks like what I might expect a selvedge to look like; also perhaps the photos in this post {someone more knowledgeable please correct me if I'm wrong on these}.

A twill weave will appear to have a grain of diagonal lines, as in this picture.

[Steve Ashton]

It was woven by DC Dagliesh, it is their standard 16oz wool tartan material. I don't know enough about fabric to tell you if it has a selvedge edge or if it is a twill weave.

Can you take a photo of the fabric showing the long edge. That is the selvedge edge that does not need a hem.

Can you tell us the width of this fabric and how old it is?

[Riverkilt]

Add to your list of possibilities Kathy Lare in Albuquerque. www.kathyskilts.com lovely lady, trained in Scotland. I've purchased a dozen of her hand sewn kilts. Many were from fabric provided to her. She hand sewed my X Marks the Scot tartan kilt. She has sewn some from Dalglish mills too.

[BobCampbell]

Can you take a photo of the fabric showing the long edge. That is the selvedge edge that does not need a hem.

Can you tell us the width of this fabric and how old it is?

I will try to get a picture.

The fabric was woven in 2019. It is a bit over 54" wide.

[KnittedReenactor]

You'd have to ask them. I'm sure there are a lot of potential problems with customer supplied fabric, they have a fairly streamlined process that doesn't need delays and contingencies.

I'm sad that they don't want to make the kilt, but it's their business. They were really friendly about it.

I will contact Barb. I'm not in any hurry, it's taken me a couple of years to actually get this cloth, a bit more of a wait isn't going to hurt.

My understanding from Rocky and Co. is they can always source proper kilt fabric of known qualities, especially if there is a mistake. Customer supplied fabric has unknown qualities and can't be readily replaced if problems occur. The potential issues and expenses if there are problems are just more headache than they want to deal with I guess.
PS take a look at the USAKilts YouTube channel for their regular livestream Q&A and back episodes.

[BobCampbell]

My understanding from Rocky and Co. is they can always source proper kilt fabric of known qualities, especially if there is a mistake. Customer supplied fabric has unknown qualities and can't be readily replaced if problems occur. The potential issues and expenses if there are problems are just more headache than they want to deal with I guess.
PS take a look at the USAKilts YouTube channel for their regular livestream Q&A and back episodes.

Oh yes, I completely understand. Still, I wanted to give them first chance as they have a reputation for supperior quality and outstanding customer service. I've also learned so much from their YouTube content that I had to at least try to give them my business. I'm sure I'll purchase something from them in the future.

Unfortunately, since the tartan is restricted, I could only get the cloth from the organization that owns the tartan. I could not get permission to have it woven and delivered direct to a kiltmaker. I'm just glad that they choose a reputable mill to weave it and made a nice 16oz fabric.

[Barb T]

Barb is a good way to go but she probably has a waiting list.

Thanks for the votes, guys! Actually, my queue is pretty short ATM - I've made a really big dent in it this spring as a result of being on lockdown.

And I've made many, many kilts with Dalgliesh tartan, and, if it's 16 oz, it will be twill weave and have a kilting selvedge.