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  1. #1
    Join Date
    21st May 22
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    Dallas, Texas
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    (Semi) Traditional - came up short so added extra pleat

    I'm working on my new "Thompson gray" kilt and have a question for everyone. I worked the pleats out to either 24 or 24.5 inches in the hips so i went with 16mm pleat width and 39 pleats which would be 24.56" total. My newbie hand stitching was all over the place and I couldn't quite master the "catching the edge" bit so I resorted to top stitching with my machine (thus adding "semi" to traditional).

    My question is, I came up just a little short after completing the 39 pleats so I added one more pleat to make 40. Now the distance between the right edge of the apron and the last pleat is exactly 24". The center pleat however is shifted over to the left by one half of a pleat. How much trouble is this going to cause me, assuming I still have enough fabric for the under apron?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    21st May 22
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    Dallas, Texas
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    I just answered my own question after measuring the remaining fabric for the underapron. It I seems just squeaked by with enough fabric.

    My apron splits are 22 waist and 23 hips. TAoK suggests 1/2 hip measurement plus 5-6" on one side of the prominent stripe and 1/2 hip measurement plus 15-17" for the pleat side of the stripe. Disregarding the "prominent stripe criteria (obviously I screwed that up in the back by adding another pleat), I get about 17" and 26" for the two measurements. By some miracle, 17" takes me within less than a quarter of an inch from the elusive stripe, and measuring 26" from there toward the pleats gets me right to the edge of the extra pleat.

    This is not an 8 yard but rather 8 meter kilt (8.75 yards). I think I'll be okay except for the shifted stripe in the back (~8 mm to the right) and the top-stitching of the pleats.

    Now to mark up the underapron and get busy again. Fortunately I've got the coming week off for vacation so I should get more time in on this project beyond the odd 1-2 hours a day.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    21st May 22
    Location
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    The kilt is finished except for belt loops. I discovered why Barb recommends cotton broadcloth or muslin for the lining in the book "TAoK" though. I used the same sort of fabric that's used for suit coat linings, a satiny nylon. This was too slick and made the kilt prone to sliding down. During my first trip out on Sunday while wearing the kilt, I found myself constantly pulling it back up and tucking in my shirt again.

    To counter the slippery lining without completely ripping out and replacing it, I added some non-slip waistband material between the buttonhole and the underapron strap, as seen in the picture. It's stitched through the lining and canvas on the underapron and also into the inside of the pleats.

    I took the kilt out on another a test run yesterday, to Walmart and for the first time it didn't feel like I was going to have a catastrophic wardrobe malfunction in the middle of the store. I even wore my slickest polyester shirt to give a worst case scenario.
    20220714_091022.jpg
    20220714_091133.jpg

    Edit: there is horrible artifacting in the first picture that wasn't present in the photo before it was resized. I think it will gets the point across though.
    Last edited by Waynetho; 14th July 22 at 07:18 AM.

  4. The Following User Says 'Aye' to Waynetho For This Useful Post:


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