Pre 1900 Tam's

[jhockin]

I've seen it, it's much firmer than those horrid grey head bags.

Peter:
I was referring to the diameter of 340mm/ 13.3 inches, which I believe is a greater diameter than the current standard.
I agree that the ones in the photo, being worn by the Outlander cosplayers appear to be less firm/“floppier”, than a felted one of the same size would tend to be.
The photo of the soldier wear a sewn tam, shows a hat so small on his head, that it appears that any amount of wind would blow it off.
scottish military tam.jpg

[figheadair]

Peter:
I was referring to the diameter of 340mm/ 13.3 inches, which I believe is a greater diameter than the current standard.
I agree that the ones in the photo, being worn by the Outlander cosplayers appear to be less firm/“floppier”, than a felted one of the same size would tend to be.
The photo of the soldier wear a sewn tam, shows a hat so small on his head, that it appears that any amount of wind would blow it off.
scottish military tam.jpg

I remember being on parade on the square at Colinton Barracks (Edinburgh) on a wild day. Quite a few bonnets were blown off and seen bowling across the Square.

[Pleater]

There is quite a bit of experimentation required when making a cap to get one which is the right diameter and has the correct or desired amount of flop or rigidity as well as sitting at the right angle and place on the head.
I have a small 'library' of caps which are quite similar, but only at first sight. I make them in crochet, as that is quite a dense fabric, and have a whole jar full of hooks of all sizes to assist in getting a cap with the right properties, and most caps I make have at least one pulling out as they are not quite right, requiring a small adjustment to get them to sit as required by the purchaser.

As the weather has become colder quite suddenly I have given away a couple of caps as it is really surprising how they make a difference. A thick woollen cap can make a brisk morning so much more enjoyable.
I have started to go out to the shops on my 'chariot' - a fairly powerful mobility scooter, and when cranked up to 11 I find that a cap, well pulled down and hood, well pulled up, are the required elements for ear protection along with double layered gloves to keep feeling in the fingers.

Anne the Pleater

[OC Richard]

Did you look at the historical example, that was 13.3 inches in diameter, laid flat? I suspect it’s much “flopper” than you might expect.

http://nms.scran.ac.uk/database/reco...-100-002-860-C

I'll always follow period images which often have a known date of creation, place of creation, and subject over museum objects which generally have no provenance other than educated guesswork, or attached stories which may have been invented at a much later time.

Yes big bonnets existed in the past! But I can't recall seeing any such in the 18th century. The 19th century, yes.

[Troglodyte]

What were the pre 1900's Tam how were they made and from what material?

How pre-1900 do you want to go..?

Maxwell and Hutchison's excellent work on Scottish Costume for 300 years from 1550 is based on written accounts of the period, estate records, tailors' accounts and pictorial evidence, to present a valuable reference in terms of dress, fashion and style.

They record that between 1660 and 1707 - the Restoration until the Union of Parliaments - that 'The common headgear of the poorer classes was still the bonnet, either blue or russet, and showed no change from previous periods.'

I emphasise 'still' as it is significant, but this is the only historic reference I have come across that mentions a colour for the bonnet being other than blue - usually illustrated as a dark shade. To say 'still' shows that the use is continued from earlier times - ie, prior to 1660.

Bonnets were made in industrial quantities at certain centres around Scotland, and their regional styles varied somewhat, but knitted and felted wool was the practice then, as now.

Craigievar Castle has a spendid example of an early blue bonnet, with known provenance, and is civilian rather than the military version that was subject to regimental fashion and whim.

My picture is a curling club bonnet, made from marled yarn in club colours, which dates from early last century and there is nothing unusual about it otherwise. The other picture is of Highand school children from the late 1800s, and shows something of the variety in bonnets - no doubt home-made.

The density of the knit, the felting and so the form-holding of the bonnet gives the lie to the 'Outlander' theatrical style so favoured by dramatists and re-enactors. If authenticity is what you are after, theatrical and film costume is best avioded.

DSCF0670a.jpg DSCF0672a.jpg DSCF0679a.jpgLochlee curling club bonnet.jpg

[Troglodyte]

Commercial and burgh records shine a spotlight on both the fashions and cultural habits of the past.

Prior to the start of the 18th century, hats (that is those forms of headwear that had a crown and brim, as opposed to bonnets) were virtually unknown in Inverness, and were the preserve of senior burghers on account of their rank, but bonnets quickly became the symbol of low birth and labouring status.

Where the bonnet remained the head-covering of choice (and more practical in many ways) social status, or rank, was shown by gentlemen opting for black bonnets, to distinguish themselves from their servants and employees or tennants who continued to wear the more common (in more ways than one!) blue bonnet.

The recent demise of Mackie's business is a reminder of how the bonnet market crashed some 300 or so years ago - along with hose production. Hose, produced in a variety of bright colours (as can be seen in contemporary pictures) were costly and time-consuming to produce, and so commanded high prices.

So the high cost of bonnets and hose today are in-keeping with the past.

[figheadair]

I emphasise 'still' as it is significant, but this is the only historic reference I have come across that mentions a colour for the bonnet being other than blue - usually illustrated as a dark shade. To say 'still' shows that the use is continued from earlier times - ie, prior to 1660.

The reference to russet bonnets is interesting and one I've not seen before. In terms of an historical reference it appears to be supported by the portrait of Aeneas (Angus) MacBean of Kinchyle c.1743.

Aeneas (Angus) MacBean of Kinchyle c1743.jpg

[figheadair]

Yes big bonnets existed in the past! But I can't recall seeing any such in the 18th century. The 19th century, yes.

That is one muckle bonnet. Best not worn on a windy day.

[DCampbell16B]

That is one muckle bonnet. Best not worn on a windy day.

Not a piper. No room for the drone.

[Hirsty]

It's worth noting that firmer bonnets had another advantage - they worked not unlike sun visors.


The Outlander Tams certainly are influenced by Rastafarian Tams designed to keep dreadlocks out of the user's face.