Difference between them

**OC Richard** · 16th November 23, 07:32 AM

Originally Posted by Tobus

For one thing, they list the heavyweight tartan as having a traditional selvedge where the Nevis has a tuck selvedge. There may be other differences in the cloth aside from weight (which appears to be the same between the two), but the difference in selvedge tells me that they are woven on different looms. So aside from the selvedge, the 'hand' may be different, as well as perhaps the warp/weft proportions, etc.

What's interesting is that House of Edgar has their "Hebridean" range which contains both newly-created fashion tartans and existing Clan tartans given a bit more "fashion" look.

Keeping with the Stewart Black theme, here's that tartan in HoE's Hebridean Range (you have to scroll down to see it)

https://www.houseofedgar.com/product...idean-tartans/

**MacKenzie** · 17th November 23, 09:44 AM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

BAT: (the mill escapes me at the moment)

Batley.

I found an article that said the mill has closed. The page was rife with ads, popup ads, etc., so I'll not post a link here.

Tartan manufacturer N Batley collapses with 23 job losses

A FAMILY-RUN textile firm – and one of the UK’s last tartan cloth manufacturers – has collapsed with the loss of 23 jobs.
Administrators were forced to make all the staff redundant at N Batley Ltd, of Dale Street, Longwood, after failing to find a buyer for the 53-year-old company.

The story was posted in 2009 and updated in 2013.

**MacKenzie** · 17th November 23, 09:48 AM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

What's interesting is that House of Edgar has their "Hebridean" range which contains both newly-created fashion tartans and existing Clan tartans given a bit more "fashion" look.

My next kilt will be the MacKenzie Hebridean.

**OC Richard** · 18th November 23, 08:00 AM

Originally Posted by MacKenzie

Batley.

I found an article that said the mill has closed.

Thanks! I've updated my post.

Evidently USA Kilts has some old-stock Batley tartan.

**OC Richard** · 18th November 23, 08:03 AM

Originally Posted by MacKenzie

My next kilt will be the MacKenzie Hebridean.

Dress MacKenzie? For an arasaid?

**MacKenzie** · 18th November 23, 03:45 PM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

Dress MacKenzie? For an arasaid?

I don't think I could pull off an arasaid.

**figheadair** · 18th November 23, 08:24 PM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

Each mill has its website where you can look at the mill's own photos and descriptions, which can help.

Translating the "German"

MM: Marton Mills https://martonmills.com/product-category/tartans/

STR: Strathmore https://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/...tartan-fabric/

LOCH: Lochcarron https://www.lochcarron.co.uk/fabric-.../tartan-fabric

HOE: House of Edgar https://www.houseofedgar.com/product...artan-fabrics/

BAT: Batley

It's good to look over the actual weaver's site for various reasons, for example with Marton Mills I discovered that

1) they sent me samples for free

2) after I got several samples in hand, I found the colours shown on the Marton Mills website were much more accurate than the colours shown on the USA Kilts website.

The other thing that's important to find out (for me) is the sett size, which some makers list.

I think a man's kilt looks best with a large sett size.

For clarification, Strathmore do not weave their own cloth but buy it in. I don't know who actually weaves it, MM possibly.

**Arnot** · 19th November 23, 01:58 AM

Originally Posted by figheadair

For clarification, Strathmore do not weave their own cloth but buy it in. I don't know who actually weaves it, MM possibly.

That's interesting, and good to know.

**OC Richard** · 19th November 23, 04:40 AM

Originally Posted by figheadair

For clarification, Strathmore do not weave their own cloth but buy it in. I don't know who actually weaves it, MM possibly.

What's interesting about Strathmore is their statement:

Strathmore’s W60 Quality Stock Tartan is a 100% pure new wool, worsted tartan kilting and upholstery fabric.

It has a weight of 415gms per metre (13.5/14oz. per yard) at width 142cm (56 inches), and is available in over 120 authentic stock tartan designs in both Modern and Old Colours, Wilson of Bannockburn interpretations, and muted colours.

Our W60 is a thoroughbred, medium weight kilting fabric, woven with a good quality selvedge and intended primarily for use as a gent’s kilting material.

Now, looking through their tartan list I only see these listed as "WOB"

https://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/...-of-lovat-wob/

https://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/.../lochaber-wob/

Are these the only commercially available tartans in purported Wilson's colours?

**figheadair** · 19th November 23, 06:38 AM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

What's interesting about Strathmore is their statement:

Strathmore’s W60 Quality Stock Tartan is a 100% pure new wool, worsted tartan kilting and upholstery fabric.

It has a weight of 415gms per metre (13.5/14oz. per yard) at width 142cm (56 inches), and is available in over 120 authentic stock tartan designs in both Modern and Old Colours, Wilson of Bannockburn interpretations, and muted colours.

Our W60 is a thoroughbred, medium weight kilting fabric, woven with a good quality selvedge and intended primarily for use as a gent’s kilting material.

Now, looking through their tartan list I only see these listed as "WOB"

https://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/...-of-lovat-wob/

https://www.strathmorewoollen.co.uk/.../lochaber-wob/

Are these the only commercially available tartans in purported Wilson's colours?

Richard,

Allegedly, some of HoE Old & Rare range are also based on Wilsons' shades. In both their, and Strathmore's case, they are wide of the mark. Here are the Strathmore graphics overlaid on Wilsons' specimens of the same tartans.

Fraser of Lovat
Fraser of Lovat1.jpg

Lochaber
Lochaber c1790.jpg