Working toward an Inverness Cape - kinda long

[Madpiper65]

My wife and I have been working toward an Inverness Cape for each of us. It is a 3rd or 4th tier priority for both time and money so we are 2 years into it and finally about to make a pattern for me as the first test case. Our inspiration is the Bandspec rain cape we each own from Mr. Antony (http://www.misterantony.com/ - Shameless plug). These are great products at an excellent price point and value. I would love one in Harris Tweed but it is simply price prohibitive, likely because the tweed is so darned expensive. We thought about using this as fodder for a pattern but decided against it as: 1) I wasn't about to ruin a rain cape that serves me so very well 2) We wanted a different pocket arrangement and 3) we wanted the collar slightly different as well (less rain, more warm).

Our work to date has consisted of pattern research. Please keep in mind, I am approaching this from 2 perspectives. First, I want to be as historically accurate to the pre-1870 era. In about 1870, the cape was converted into a half-cape with the cape sewn into the arm holes in the rear, leaving only 1 garment later between the wearer and the elements down the back. We do not want this. Second, I am an engineer so methodical approach is part of my nature.

We obtained the original cutter's instructions from the Internet and digested them as best we could while trying to follow the "technical" jargon of tailoring some 150 years ago. This lead us to a search of this and other web sites were we found both the Butterick and Simplicity patterns referenced. Both were obtained. Our review and comparison to our understanding of the cutter's instructions drove us to conclude that these costume patterns were just that, costumes that achieved a "look" without the opportunity for all the functionality. The capes were especially "inappropriate" (small) as functional garments. We then bought the Reconstructing History pattern and we were very pleased with it, except the pattern was post 1870 and the pockets were not what we were after. Given the 3 patterns and the cutter's instructions, I think I can draft a pattern in my size (I am between sizes) that is pretty darn close to period correct. I hope to use newspaper as a pattern material. The test garment will be in Muslin.

Once mine is right, tailoring one for a woman's curves will present another set of challenges.

Last night, we went to a local fabric store that had winter wool fabrics on clearance. My wife and I found 3 bolts of 100% wool that was about as good as possible for a cape short of being tweed. The blow-out price was $3.25 a yard on wool that was regularly $24.98 a yard. We bought them out, enough to make 2 garments with a fine wool lining for a warm winter fit.

My wife is a sewing pro who usually works in a very unforgiving weave of silk. The wool should be no problem for her but she says I have to get her machine serviced before this project.

Wish us luck. We hope to be ready for Autumn weather.

[brewerpaul]

Keep us posted with photos if possible. Always an interest of mine to see what other people come up with. Below is a link to a thread I started when I made my Inverness Cape. The cape turned out great and very very warm/windproof. Best of luck with your project.

http://www.xmarksthescot.com/forum/f...estions-77471/

And without a photo it never happened so here is me on a windy day this past February. It was too windy, 25+mph gusts, to wear a kilt so I was in my wool breeks.

[Madpiper65]

What pattern did you use?

[brewerpaul]

What pattern did you use?

My start point was the Sherlock Holmes (Simplicity 2517) pattern. From there I totally butchered it up and modified it so it would end up like the capes I see on vendor sites that sell 600+ dollar capes. The Simplicity pattern is more a cloak with caplet patter so I pretty much used it as a basic outline and then pieced the cape together using muslin. It took a bit of modification but I got rid of the sleeves, extended the caplet to wrist lenght and made it all a one piece cloak. In reality it is 3 parts, cloak, caplet and collar.

[McMurdo]

Best of luck with the Inverness Cape. I own one that I purchased from VMac, I love it and get compliments whenever I wear it.

[Madpiper65]

Thanks for the link to the old thread. I have archived it off to my computer in hopes that it will help us over some of the rough spots. In considering what to use for pockets, I see that you used more of the same material. This is an option but I had also considered using chamois leather or kid leather for these. This is going to get interesting.

[Madpiper65]

Scored some very nice soft leather (green) that will match the wool I plan to use very nicely. Plan to use it for pockets. The current plan is to add a ticket/checkbook pocket, a pocket watch pocket, and a fountain/ballpoint pen pocket to the cape. The ticket pocket will be hidden in a seam and use an invisible zipper. The watch pocket will be a simple welt pocket and the pen pocket will be a simple patch pocket.

[Madpiper65]

I sat down today to look at the cutter's guide and figured out how that process works! I can now effectively compare modern patterns to the original pattern making instructions.