I have a blue denim X-Kilt and I wear it almost everyday. It's time. I need another one.

I already have a black gabardine for my first RevK. I know is not the best for a kilt but is the kind of fabrics I use for my everyday pants and I want to be able to wear my kilts everyday with the same style.

My Xkilt has 10" apron and 30" pleats (10 pleats, 3" each).

I read 2" is the recommended size for a knife pleat, with 3" depth

Beacause an even pleat count is needed I can do:

2" x 16 pleats and 8" apron (which seems a small apron)
1.872" x 16 pleats and keep the 10" apron
2" x 14 pleats and 12" apron (Too big apron?)
2.142" x 14 pleats and keep the 10" apron

Figuring out the measures and sewing with precision is no problem for me. Before tappering my X-kilt waist was exactly 40". I mark using accumulated measures to avoid the errors to add up.

The question are:

Should I change the apron to less than 10" and keep 2" for each pleat?
Should I reduce or enlarge slightly each pleat ?

Keeping the pleat deph to 1,5 the pleat size is a good choice? I don't care if greater depth it's difficult to sew. I will sew it once and wear it many times.

I like to finish some parts with black leather (The loose apron corner for example). But I'm afraid this will make the washing more difficult. Any experience washing kilts with leather?