Concept: Belted Plaid Relation to Leine?

[OC Richard]

We have a few good depictions of the pre-invasion traditional Irish dress.

The costume consisted of the leine, a long saffron-dyed shirt reaching the knees with huge sleeves, the ionar, a short jacket, and the brat, the woolen mantle.

Here it is in 1521, the fellow in centre wearing leine and ionar, the fellow on the right with the brat worn as a cloak.



I think it's clear that in Ireland the brat evolved into a cloaklike garmet but in the Highlands it evolved into the breacan-an-feile. Both were wool, often patterned, and both often had a border either plain, fringed, or fur. It's the images of early fur-trimmed "belted plaids" which most clearly reveal the link to the brat.

There is that one early puzzling description of Highlanders wearing pleated/patched shirts daubed with pitch. It's unclear just what that was referring to.

Around 25 years ago, when I was regularly attending the Ren Faire, my costume was that "missing link" thing. I made a plaid wool plaid and trimmed it with fur. It could be worn as a cloak/brat or belted around the waist. My leine could be worn floor length or hiked up with my crois to be knee-length.

[SlackerDrummer]

Around 25 years ago, when I was regularly attending the Ren Faire, my costume was that "missing link" thing. I made a plaid wool plaid and trimmed it with fur. It could be worn as a cloak/brat or belted around the waist. My leine could be worn floor length or hiked up with my crois to be knee-length.

Of course you did, Richard. Do you have photographic evidence?

[Burly Brute]

*deleted by author

[Bugbear]

... I think it's clear that in Ireland the brat evolved into a cloaklike garmet but in the Highlands it evolved into the breacan-an-feile. Both were wool, often patterned, and both often had a border either plain, fringed, or fur. It's the images of early fur-trimmed "belted plaids" which most clearly reveal the link to the brat. ...

I'm not an expert, I'm just trying to understand a little better.
That was something I have been having difficulty interpreting from all the information. It sounded like the belted plaid replaced the brat, rather than evolved from it, from what I was reading. I'm still not sure.

The main question was whether the leine was the clothing and the belted plaid was the overcoat, so to speak.

[MacSpadger]

The main question was whether the leine was the clothing and the belted plaid was the overcoat, so to speak.

Yes, that's a good way of putting it.

There are descriptions of Highlanders in the late 1600's/early 1700's taking off their plaids to charge their opponents, going at them full pelt in their shirts/leine, targes up and broadswords ready.

[Mark E.]

* Raises an eyebrow *
You don't have a leine for reenacting, and you wear the belted plaid?

Anyway, Matt's article said thick linen was used for the leine in the Highlands, if I remember correctly.

I wear a style similar to that in the Rob Roy movie with Liam Neeson...It is of what some term "tent linen"-REALLY heavy stuff, not the hanky linen a lot of the shirt are made of from the occasional wear sites. The hem hits about 16" below my waist (I'm 6'-3"), and there is enough to tuck around and belt without a brat/kilt length over. Ended up having a pair of them made, since I couldn't find them readily available the way they should be made.

Test running, I have worn a belted plaid sans "leine", as well as "leine" sans belted plaid. No one who says they go sans shirt due to heat is telling the straight truth-there is an amount of friction under the belt that can make a day most uncomfortable. I understand that farmers of the era would tie their shirts between their legs in the fields-this is possible, but not if your hem is square cut-at least, I have tried, and it gets mighty waddy. As far as martial action, the leine without the plaid is a very good choice of clothing, as long as you belt it. Just remember to stay on your feet, or...You get the picture.(Though the shock factor could work in your favor, as long as the folk about don't know you.)



I'm on the left.

If you are looking for heavier linen material, Jas. Townsend & Son has a good bit, in natural colors, as well as William Booth Draper (www.wmboothdraper.com), including descriptions, patterns and hardware that may come in handy. If they can't match a pattern to your era, call them-they are well connected. I can spare a square of the two types of linen I used, if you are comparing materials, too.

[Bugbear]

Thanks.