Feeling like trying another experement.

[Sir Didymous]

This could be an expensive experiment, so I'm asking for some thoughts and opinions before I get started. I'm thinking about commissioning a Montrose doublet. The thing that makes it experimental is that I was considering having it made in either a medium grey worsted wool or maybe even twill, with antiqued brass round dome buttons. The idea is to get a more dressed down version than what is commonly available. So does anyone have any thoughts before I start talking to my seamstress?

[MacRobert's Reply]

Two immediate thoughts Sir Didymous: temperature and formality.

Most doublets can be worn open if the temperature is high, the Montrose needs to be buttoned up. There is a double of layer of fabric across the chest and it is normally very close fitting (figure hugging). In modern centrally-heated venues, it can be insufferably hot.

Since the Montrose needs to be worn with a lace jabot or cravat, which are very dressy, it is a difficult doublet to dress down.

Having said this, I did once see one worn open at the top with a black bow tie, the flaps buttoned back to form collars, and it didn't look too bad but still very formal.

IMHO there are more appropriate doublet and jacket styles that would look good in the fabrics and buttons you suggest,

[MacLowlife]

There are worsted ones ( as opposed to velvet) around. If you just want to dip your toe in, consider a USAF academy cadet jacket, which is very close to what you are looking for. Here is one that will be perfect, if you wear a size 36 coat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/U-S-AIR-FORC...item565ba8ab71

You may also like to try this pattern from Folkwear http://www.folkwear.com/133.html

The buttons aren't as widely spaced as some, but they give good advice about contrasting facings, etc., and your tailor might be able to stretch the spacing...

Another good one is McCall's Pattern 4745. Just stop it at the waist.

[MacLowlife]

And assuming you are not in the 38-40 size department yourself, Sir D, Here is a nice one available ready made at an attractive price...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mens-montros...item2a342b5816

I am not sure about the Saltire ornaments on the back- maybe someone else can explain them.

[Sir Didymous]

Thanks MacLowlife, but I am in a considerably larger size than either of these (48). It is however funny that you should mention the McCalls pattern; that is what I am using as a base design when I sit down with the seamstress. I saw one of my buddies that reenacts the American Civil War as a confederate officer. They frequently fold the top flaps back much like MacRobert's Reply was talking about. I think that with the right shirt and tie style, it could be dressed down a bit. Granted, there are doublet styles that better lend themselves to dressing down, but I figure the worst case scenario is that I get a formal doublet. I could use one anyhow. Having said that though, I think that the combination of a more toned down material and dull buttons will aid in this attempt.

[tky58]

If you don't care for the McCall pattern try the one from Folkwear Sewing patterns #133 "Belgan Military Chef Jacket" It is a short double breasted upturned collar pattern.

[tky58]

BTW they have a kilt pattern also.