Potential source for custom weaves

**Alan H** · 15th August 13, 11:06 AM

It''s the Knockando woolen mill. The mill and its machinery dates back to the 1700's and it's been restored by a Historical Trust.

http://www.knockandowoolmill.org.uk/

Apparently the mill used to specialize in blankets, but according to what I see on their Facebook page, they seem to be weaving tartan as well. Several years ago they had their own tartan designed. Now they're weaving up a special tartan to celebrate the opening of their garden. The tartan is based on the McCall sett, I think.

X-Markers might consider contacting the trust for specialty weaves.

https://www.facebook.com/knockandowoolmill

**Alan H** · 15th August 13, 11:09 AM

You all might enjoy this picture...

I plan to visit the mill next summer when we're in Scotland.

**Jock Scot** · 15th August 13, 11:19 AM

These people had a stand at the Moy show(near Inverness) a couple of weeks ago and I had a long talk with the good people there. They knew their stuff and their wares on show were of fine quality. I did not specifically discuss the custom weaving of tartan-------sorry!------but I was certainly under the impression that they would consider it. My impression was that as they are a small enterprise then the "instant" deliveries demanded by our modern age, would be an unrealistic thought.

**Alan H** · 15th August 13, 11:36 AM

I think I'm going to inquire about a custom weave of our Cardinal Highland Athletic Club sett. It might work out, if there's enough interest in our Club, to have 20-30 yards woven. I wonder if they'll be interested.....only one way to find out! We'd be in no hurry, so I'm completely fine with waiting.

By the way, Jock, the Moy Field Fair looks like a excellent event. I would thoroughly enjoy attending that! Pity that we likely won't be in Inverness that late...

**brewerpaul** · 15th August 13, 01:37 PM

I have been a small but yearly contributor to Knockando since before they re-opened to the public. I came across them on the net and really liked the idea of such a small old mill staying alive and productive. It has been enjoyable to get progress emails as they have rebuilt equipment and refurbished the place. Now they are doing tours, rebuilding a garden area and branching out with their goods. The photoe above of the Duke visiting was during their grand re-opening last year. I hope to one day make it there with Jennifer and visit.

On the subject of fabric I asked Bonnie Heather Greene to ask them about custom weaves and if they discounted fabric to known kilt makers such as her. Ill include in quotes their reply from 9-25-2012.

"Good evening

Thank you for your enquiry. If you would like a special tartan made the minimum would be 60 metres and we could quote a price if this is something that would interest you.

If you are ordering the Knockando Woolmill tartan of which we carry stock, we can offer a wholesale discount on orders over 30 metres.

All the best from Bonnie Scotland!

Moira"

Seeing as I only wanted an 8 yard kilt from Bonnie we stopped there. One day I will purchase, at their retail, enough of their kilt fabric for a kilt. I really like the colors of the tartan and the meaning. In time Ill count my pennies and hope to win the lottery. I hope it works out that you can get enough people to support a run of fabric from them, I alway feel supporting small independent shops is the way to go.

**Alan H** · 16th August 13, 10:50 AM

60 meters is a lot, but it's also a lot less than Marton Mills or HOE or Locharron would require.

**Bob C** · 16th August 13, 11:11 AM

There was a nice article about them in the most recent issue of "The Highlander" magazine.

**The Wizard of BC** · 16th August 13, 11:51 AM

As a side note to this:

Marton Mills minimum order yardage is 14 meters or 3 kilts worth.

There is one other artisan weaver who may, and I stress may, be willing to take on short custom runs of as little as on kilt length. (8 yards single width). Myself and a few other of our kiltmakers have been discussing this with the mill. They are currently on their summer holiday but we should hear back from them shortly.

It is not the weaving of the fabric that is the why most mills have a minimum of 60 yards. It is the finishers. This is out of the weavers control. Most of the weaving mills in the UK use the same finishers so we are sort of stuck.

**be da veva** · 16th August 13, 11:55 PM

Originally Posted by The Wizard of BC

As a side note to this:

It is not the weaving of the fabric that is the why most mills have a minimum of 60 yards. It is the finishers. This is out of the weavers control. Most of the weaving mills in the UK use the same finishers so we are sort of stuck.

Ok, I'll bite. Who are the ''Finishers''. They sound like a group of villainous people determined to deny us of Instant Tartan Gratification.

**M. A. C. Newsome** · 17th August 13, 04:04 AM

When fabric comes off the loom it is referred to as "in the grease." It feels rather stiff, there may be some unevenness in the weave, etc. Before the fabric is sold or made into finished goods, the cloth itself is usually "finished." This is a process of cleaning and softening the fabric, and may also include other treatments, such as a brushed or raised finish, etc. This is almost universally outsourced. The only woolen mill in Scotland that does their own finishing in house is Johnstons of Elgin.

Just as a confirmation of all the above, I also inquired about custom weaves from Knockando and was told 60m. That just wouldn't work for my needs, which often can be as little as 4 yds single width. Besides Dalgliesh, who will weave as little as a single yard of cloth (if you pay the loom set up fee) the smallest minimum order requirement I have found from any other Scottish tartan weaver has been 10 yds double width.