This depends one he or she from whom you are ordering! Contact them by telephone and discuss it. They know the cut of their various suppliers' jackets, and where and how they want you measured. Have TLOYL handy and do the measuring while you're on the phone with them. I'd also frankly wear your kilt while the measurements are being made so that TLOYL can measure to the places your supplier requests.
Howzat?
Rev'd Father Bill White: Mostly retired Parish Priest & former Elementary Headmaster. Lover of God, dogs, most people, joy, tradition, humour & clarity. Legion Padre, theologian, teacher, philosopher, linguist, encourager of hearts & souls & a firm believer in dignity, decency, & duty. A proud Canadian Sinclair with solid Welsh and other heritage.
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