Well, it's a done deal. New kilt ordered. Robertson Hunting Ancient, Lochcarron Strome, 8 yard, hand sewn, pleated to the red stripe (thanks for the advice on that one), triple fringe, fancy kilt lining (!). Should be ready in about 5 or so weeks.

Even though I wanted hunting ancient, there were still choices to be made; Lochcarron, Marton Mills or House of Edgar (the waistcoat is their muted medium weight).
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All lovely, but Lochcarron Strome was the one for me:

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I'll keep you updated. . .