My X-Kilt questions and progress

[MMorgan]

I posted a couple of these questions at the end of my Materials thread but I think I would be better in here and start my official X-Kilt progression and question thread

ahh questions... think I read somewhere for your measurement you should add about an inch to your rump and waist measurement to make up for the space the pleats will take up on the inside??? so say I have a 32 inch waist I should go with say 33??? and a rump of 39 should be closer to 40??? so when its all put together it doesnt end up being to snug???

MY fell measurement seems about right(I came with 7.5 inches but my total drop seems a bit off.... I am 6 foot I wear between a 34-36 inch inseam(I am leggy...) but I am only getting a drop around 21 inches to the top of me knee??? that sound right??? (I used the masking tape on the wall trick to make my marks and then measure betwen the marks to get my #'s since I really dont have anyone to help me out LOL.... and it seems to me to be a pretty accurate way of measuring)

Pleat depth.... Will upping the # from 5 - 5 1/4 for my inside pleats to say 6 or even 7 inches really add much visually?? or will the over lap at the waist be more of a hassle then the small amount of depth it adds to be worth it??

and the over panel wide Vs narrow..... I think I like the narrower look better so doing my math...(If I have this right...)

40 inch rump I can go with 10 3 inch box pleats and a 10 inch overpanel... would that be a wide or narrow panel for someone with say a 32-33 inch waist

or would..

say 11 3 inch plaits with a 7 inch over panel.... or does 7 inches sound TO narrow LOL

I think I am leaning toward the 7 inch overpanel

I Think that may be the major questions I have right now.... the other stuff like deciding on buttons or velcro or straps or whatever can just be decided as I go along..


Once again thanks for any input and I will TRY not to be to bothersome

[Heming]

I'm no expert, but it seems I got here early and can therefore give my limited advise unchallenged:

I prefer the apron width at the hip to be around 2/5 of the hip circumference. So with a 40 inch hip I'd go for an apron of 16 inches, and 8 pleats (or 12 pleats of 2 inches reveal, but that's for when you don't need the manual). But if you want a narrow apron (some prefer that, and some pull it off, but it just looks silly on me - I'm too skinny), I still wouldn't go less than 10 inches for the apron. That's 1/4 of the hip circumference.

A key I use (for pleated skirts, but I think it applies) is this: A front panel should be as wide at the hips as the distance from center kneecap to center kneecap when the wearer is standing up straight. Stand up straight with your feet two fists apart and knees and toes pointing froward. Have someone measure the distance from knee to knee (center to center). Don't do this yourself, get help. Bending over distorts the measurement.

On me, who has a hip measurement of about 42 inches, this works out as a front panel of 11 inches, just very slightly more than 1/4 hip measurement. Note that this refers to the apron width at the hip line, NOT to the bottom hem of the apron (which will be wider due to the A-shaping).

If you make the apron too narrow, It ends up looking like just a very wide pleat. Make sure that your apron shows on both sides of your sporran (if wearing a sporran).

Also, I really like button closure, as I'm an avid hater of velcro. I think choosing the right buttons can really make a statement and be very decorative. I recently made a contemporary kilt using black patent buttons (think jeans buttons). Cool snap buttons are also great, and practical! The drawback of buttons is that you don't get the flexibility of straps or velcro, so if your weight/size varies up and down a bit according to season, go for velcro or straps to get adjustability. If you're the sporty type and don't add insulation in winter, try buttons. Or, if you're handy with your sewing machine, why not a short zipper on the apron edge and a hidden snap for the under apron?

As for the drop, your measurement could be right if you want it to hang low on your hips (jeans waist or lower). If not: Measure again, and get help. Bending over distorts the measurement (you seem shorter than you are). I like my contemporary kilt a bit longer than the traditional, about mid-knee. Try kneeling on the floor with your back straight up (look to the ceiling a couple of yards in front of you) and measuring from waist to floor. Or if you have a pair of jeans that sit on the waist where you want your kilt, put these on, sit down on a not too low chair and draw a chalk mark on your knee. Then measure the jeans from waist to chalk mark and add an inch to that measurement. It's not as accurate as being measured by someone else, but beats bending over any day. Make sure you use chalk if you don't want to throw away your jeans afterwards ;-)

Hope this helps.

[sydnie7]

21" drop on a 6-foot person to top of knee isn't out of the question, that is just about what Bigdad1 takes with waistband at belly button. Working along, you can double-check measurements by cutting a piece of twine, cardboard, etc. to that length, stand in front of mirror and hold it in place. Check where it hits the knee when you stand straight. Use twine to double-check waist and hip measures too. If the ends of the twine don't meet, or overlap, then you need to re-measure.

As for pleat depth -- typically, box-pleated kilts have little or no overlap where the pleats meet on the inside. (That's a direct quote from the box pleat supplement to Art of Kiltmaking, not just my opinion). I'd stick with the measurements given in XKilt manual, especially as this is your first. You can make a box pleat with overlap, not saying it's not done, but you might want to avoid that complication on your first try.

I don't go any narrower than 33% of waist for an apron, so my recommendation is the 10 inch width example you gave. You should only need about 1/2 inch extra at the waist (you're using Jo-Ann poly cotton, right? If it's a heavier, denim or corduroy for example, I'd allow the full inch). And the hip measure should be loose to begin with, careful about adding too much at hips or it won't fit right when worn. Recheck that 39 inches with a piece of twine, if that's a tight measure then making hips 40 should be fine.

Have fun and keep us posted!

[KiltedBrewer]

MM,

I'll throw in my answer on your over apron question. Apron width is a matter of personal preference. I've always thought that wider aprons are more reminiscent of traditional kilts and narrower ones are more contemporary. The members here have made x-kilts with aprons of every width from full-width (half of the hip measurement) down to about 6 inches.

When I made my x-kilt, I was going for a look similar to a well-known modern kilt that comes from Seattle. They use a 6 inch over apron, so I went with a 7.5 inch over apron for mine. (My measurements are waist: 39", hips: 44", and drop: 24".) Here's a photo.

If you search the DIY forum for x-kilt posts, you'll find lots of photos of x-kilts with varying width aprons. You can choose the look you like best.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

David

[Alan H]

I find that I have nothing to add, here.

One of the great things about this project is that now there are 40 people currently active on this board who can answer X-Kilt questions from experience, and a dozen or more who have made 2 or 3 or more and who have an absolute wealth of experience.

[MMorgan]

I love how you ask questions and get a slightly different perspective from each answer... (and no thats not being a smartA@@ LOL I really do enjoy reading peoples opinions and ideas!!!) AND even more so how EVERYONE is correct because it really does boil down to a matter of taste doesnt it.... So here is my final decision and why

11 3" pleats with a 7 inch apron...(I really like kilted brewers apron its only 7.5 inches and since he is a bit hippier and wider in the waist then I am I think it will still look a bit wider then his does on him...) ( I personally think on solid color contemporary Kilts the narrow apron look is nicer... if I was to do one out of a patterned material I will prolly go with a 10 inch apron because for some reason I think a wider to full half width aprons look better with prints/patterns(SHRUG))

I will keep my inside pleats to 6 inches so there is no overlap in the skirt because now that I think about it sydnie has a point.... with box pleats I would bet alot of internal overlap would effect the way it moves and the inside pleats might even bind up on each other.... and thanks for the reassurance that a 21 inch drop is not unheard of LOL I am FAIRLY certain my measurements was spot on and using hemings measuring ideas I still come up with the same #.... so I will prolly go with a 23 - 23 1/2 inch drop as I think contemporary style kilts look better just slightly past the bottom of the knee (like AlanH's camo one is in the desert picture in the manual.) (that and I have REALLY knobby knees ) And thanks for the corrections on the measurment for rump and waist sydnie..... I will shoot for 32-32 1/2 for the waist and keep the rump at 40 because at 39 I dont think there would be much modesty in the front area.....


Heming I agree with the buttons/snaps I really like the idea from a decorative point of view and can add the little "something" to the way it looks.... will probably go with straps for now ( I really like the look of straps; 2 on left, one on right) and add some buttons when I find some I like....


So thanks everyone I think thats enough to get me started marking and cutting

so here is what I am going with

32.5 inch waist
40 inch rump
11 3" plaits
7" over apron
23" drop
2 straps on right hip and 1 strap on left hip to hold it together(though I might still use alittle bit of velcro to hold the aprons together hidden on the inside.....)


P.S. Kilted brewer... you wouldn't happen to be a homebrewer would you???? (I am a homebrewer and was wanting to use kiltedbrewer as my nickname here but alas you already had it!!!! )

[Pleater]

There is no law that demands that the under apron be the same size as the over apron, so you can have it extend to the left, and have the edge shaped to be wider at the lower edge than the top in order to provide adequate cover and prevent any gap when sitting or climbing stairs.

Also good sized under apron pleats help to provide ease of movement with out pulling on the smaller pleats.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

[MMorgan]

!!!!!!!!!!!! its on !!!!!!! my step ma found me a sewing machine at a garage sale for 10 bucks.... its an ancient singer thats built like a tank LOL but it works and is smooth as silk So the xkilt will be started this weekend!!!(prolly tonight)

Can you tell I am excited

[sydnie7]

Great find, those "ancient Singers" are highly prized around here! You'll probably get a call for pix of the machine along with your kilt LOL

[Smayniac]

There is no law that demands that the under apron be the same size as the over apron, so you can have it extend to the left, and have the edge shaped to be wider at the lower edge than the top in order to provide adequate cover and prevent any gap when sitting or climbing stairs.

Also good sized under apron pleats help to provide ease of movement with out pulling on the smaller pleats.

Anne the Pleater :ootd:

I like to extend pleats under the apron on the left side, I find it balances the ones that run under on the wrap on the right side. I'm a bit worried about my next endeavor since I want to do the RK version and it needs to be symetrical.
Bob