I have just bought two jackets to alter and have been searching for instructions on how to do it. Your two posts are just what I needed, now I can go ahead with confidence. Thankyou.
One thing has always intrigued me, David, and I probably will not understand your answer (but that's just me): how is the lining stitched into jackets? It always appears to have been sewn from the inside with no stitches being visible. Even on your beautiful new jacket, your wife appears to have finished the lining from inside it!! Very neat indeed.
The author of the blog is an Italian-Canadian tailor, with a bunch of experience making men's wear, both in factory settings and by hand. He's got a bunch of posts showing how various things are done. Well worth reading if you've got any interest in that sort of thing.
Thanks for the explanation. The visuals are really helpful.
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I do this slightly differently - I stretch the outer edge of the binding so it lies flat.
If you have a pattern, draw the curve on your ironing board with chalk or stick pins in, or press it onto the pattern if it is sturdy enough.
Take your binding and gently stretch one edge, still folded over and steam press it so that it will lay perfectly flat in the correct shape.
When you come to sew it in place there will be no need to ease in the binding.
This is for using all cotton bias binding - synthietic ribbon type binding will not stretch like the bias one, and only all cotton can take the stream pressing. Don't cut the binding off the length - it will probably shrink whan steamed and you don't want to find it is too short when you come to sew it on.
Fabric cut on the bias is malleable, it is how tailors are able to shape the sleeve heads of jackets.
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