Phillabeg, Feilidh-beag, or "Little Kilt"

[Phicong]

I have decided to make a Phillabeg, Feilidh-beag, or "Little Kilt" or what ever you want to call it. I have looked all over and found almost no information on how to self fold the pleats or how they are sewed in with the overlap of the tartan above the belt line.
Does this type of kilt have inner and outer aprons like the standard kilts?
Does anyone have one of these kilts that would be willing to share the above information with me?
Appreciate any replies.

Gordon of Clan MacHardy origin

[MacWage]

These may be of some help:
http://www.kilts-n-stuff.com/Kilts/phillabegs.html
(there was a link to how to foldit somewhere on the site)

Article by Matt Newsome in "The Scottish Banner"
September 2006 -- The Evolution of the Kilt -- Part II: The Feilidh-beag
(link on his own site is not yet active)

The problem is, like for the belted plaid/great kilt, there are no contemporary accounts as to how it was put together. Only pictures survive as all but a VERY few (of the early tailored type) were converted into something else or disposed of when they got old.
I'd contact/call Matt Newsome at the Scottish Tartan Museum in Franklin, North Carolina and get advise from him on the matter. Few know more on the topic that he does.

[Woodsheal]

Consider also this article. The thinking is, that since the belted plaid ("great kilt") most likely had a drawstring to facilitate its use, so too did the earliest philabegs have a drawstring in the waist:

http://www.tartansauthority.com/Web/...eltedplaid.asp

Here's an image from ca. 1780 which shows no careful pleating as we now know it, and apparently not much of an overlap of the "aprons":

http://www.marariley.net/celtic/images/stockings.JPG

[PiobBear]

I have decided to make a Phillabeg, Feilidh-beag, or "Little Kilt" or what ever you want to call it. I have looked all over and found almost no information on how to self fold the pleats or how they are sewed in with the overlap of the tartan above the belt line. Does this type of kilt have inner and outer aprons like the standard kilts?
Does anyone have one of these kilts that would be willing to share the above information with me?

It's pleated (as near as anyone today knows) just like a feilidh mhor; I lay it out across the bed, leaving three hand's lengths (for me, about 18") for the inner apron, then start pulling pleats until I have another three hand's lengths for the outer apron. Slide my belt underneath, lay down, pull the right apron over to the left, the left apron over to the right, fasten my belt snugly and stand up; pulling and tugging at it until my aprons are smooth and the hem breaks at the knee. Almost takes less time to do it than to tell about it.

Why do you want a feilidh beg? If you've a nice piece of cloth, why not make a modern kilt? Looks much better, is much more versatile (at least from a sartorial point of view) and is much easier to put on.

[The Wizard of BC]

The Phillabeg or "Little Kilt" is the modern version.

This is the kilt you see on members of Pipe Bands.

I'm as confused as the rest of us when your say "Does this type of kilt have the inner and outer aprons like a 'Standard Kilt.'". It is a standard kilt.

If what you are trying to describe is the kilt that you see worn by Pipe Bands then the definative work on how to make one is "The Art of Kiltmaking" By our own Barb Tewksbury. This book is available at your local library but I suggest you check www.celticdragonpress.com and buy your own copy. Not just well worth the money, this book is a 'must have' for anyone thinking about making their own kilt.

[Woodsheal]

Steve,
Quite often,when someone uses the term "phillabeg" they're referring to the early, 18th C. version - usually for re-enacting purposes. I agree: our modern kilts are indeed "phillabegs", but they're somewhat different than the ones of 250 years ago....

[The Wizard of BC]

I will let other psudo historians and members of SCA argue and debate those points.

[Woodsheal]

I will let other psudo historians and members of SCA argue and debate those points.

Well, this "psudo" historian has a Masters Degree in the discipline! Do you have something against recreating the past within the "living history" and re-enactment hobbies, and the folks therein who strive to have their period garb and kit as historically accurate as possible?

Now, one could talk about modern pseudo-kilts as well, couldn't one...?

[Phicong]

The directions which PIOBBEAR provided are what I was looking for. I was not searching for information about a generic modern or traditional kilt but rather the old model Feilidh-beag which was folded each wearing by the wearer. According to Celtic Croft, they also make the Feilidh-beag with sewn in pleats. I would love some pics to see how this is done exactly, especially the waist band and the concealed buckles.
I thank everyone who replied to my request. To answer those who wonder why I want an old model Feilidh-beag, it is probably for the same reason that I fly paragliders, because I want to.

Gordon of Clan MacHardy origin

[GunnHighlander]

I Re-enact with "Montgomerie's Highlanders", the 77th Highland Regiment of the french and indian war. We wear the Feilidh-beag in the Black Watch Tartan. The "little kilt" is nothing more than a Feilidh-mor with the extra material cut off. So it's exactly the same, i.e. the aprons, the pleats, etc. except it isn't as "modern" (buckles, straps) as a modern formal kilt.

When the highlanders came to the colonies to fight the french and indians on behalf of the crown in 1756, they first wore the great kilt. They quickly learned that fighting in the mountains of western Pa, N.Y. and Canada didn't lend itself to the bulk of a great kilt, so they cut the extra material above the belt off. Hence the fillabeg.

Not much difference.