"One World" Kilt Prototype

[creativeaccents]

Well, my new kilt is now in the works! I have called this "One World" for a host of reasons, but largely because it draws from several old and contemporary ideas and too, because in our world it is bloody well time that we begin thinking in global terms whether in our decisions, actions, or the impacts of all that we do.

Beginning with the ideas discussed here in terms of comfort and ease of wear, I began with craft paper and some simple sketches. Phase one has been the waist band that begins with the right hip and then wraps all the way around where it is buttoned with two buttons then continues to the lef hip where it is again buttoned with two buttons. The waistband is a dual layer of cloth with a stiffening interfacing material to prevent rolling. Not designed for the super wide belts, the waistband itself will hold men's dress belts or wider and heavier mid-width belts.

Thus far, this has been a LOT of fun both in the planning, the cutting of the pattern and in tonight's cutting of the material, the pressing, and the installation of the interfacing.

After designing the basic idea, I cut the pattern for a short back panel that will be centered just below the waist band on the back and run about 4 inches down the line of the spine and hip. This oblong panel will taper from the bottom to the top sides where it will join the front panels. Beneath the panel will be the pleats. Centered in the panel will be something such as some simple embroidered motif, accented on the sides by something like a triangle with the sides cut off.

Thus far it is going great, especially since I have never tackled a sewing project!

[creativeaccents]

OK, first attempt at any real sewing, using a machine. Sewed the interfacing into the waist. No trouble keeping it a nice straight line, but did notice that for some reason instead of the kind of perfectly straight stitch pattern that would be expected and desired, the stitches themselves seem to have a line that is not perfectly in line with each other. I have the machine set for zero width, a spacing setting of 14 (singer), and the pressure on the foot set at 5. The pressure settings run 1 to 7. Not really noticeable unless you look really closely, but annoying. Its not because of feeding the fabric out of the desired line, but in the actual stiching itself.

[The Wizard of BC]

Try this.

with a piece of scrap fabric and thread of a contrasting color stitch a line while watching the needle closely. If you see the needle moving back and forth slightly like a narrow zig-zag your machine is out of adjustment and a small tweek will bring it back in.

If you don't see the needle moving look at the stitch line you just sewed. If the stitches still seem to be wavering you may have a worn needle bar.
To check this, hand crank the needle until the point is just above the pressure foot and then grasp just above the needle where the little screw holding the needle is and try to wiggle the needle first side to side then front to back. if you feel any movement at all the needle bar is worn and replacing it is costly.

Or just live with a slightly wavy stitch line. As long as you match the thread color to your fabric color it should not matter to most people (If they notice it at all.)

[creativeaccents]

Thanks Steve!
I will check those suggestions on my machine. What surprised me with this is that it did a perfectly straight line before and only began this when I put new thread on the bobbin and then began sewing the two layers of PV and the interfacing. Maybe I need to consider a new, heavier needle, the tension of the foot, and the threading of the bobbin through the bobbin holder..the manual's picture for this is useless and this is not like the bobbin feed I have seen before. The instructions say to pull the thread into a notch and then draw it under the tension spring and into slot, but the diagrams are virtually useless. On the other hand, it is working so maybe just some minor adjustments.
By the way, a nice article in the Toronto Sun.
Clarence Walker

[The Wizard of BC]

Article?

[BEEDEE]

Article?

Steve - you were in the Toronto Sun!!


http://www.torontosun.com/Lifestyle/...68591-sun.html

Updated the link to:

http://www.torsun.canoe.ca/Lifestyle...68591-sun.html

Brian

[Kid Cossack]

http://www.torsun.canoe.ca/Lifestyle...68591-sun.html

RKilts is doing 5300 kilts a year? YOW-ZA. (Really?)

[Canuck]

http://www.torsun.canoe.ca/Lifestyle...68591-sun.html

RKilts is doing 5300 kilts a year? YOW-ZA. (Really?)

If he is, he's in big trouble! The interviewer has a hearing problem, I said I build between 200-300 kilts a year ...I guess she heard 53 hundred.
Now back to our regular thread of tension.
Rarely does one have to deal with bobbin tension, more apt to be upper tension. Sometimes rethreading and making sure the thread is in the proper tension plates is all that's needed.
Now back to my machine ... I have 5.044 to do before the end of the year
Cheers
Robert

[emolas]

5300 kilts? whew...

Steve Ashton, an engineer and owner/founder of Victoria-based Freedom Kilts, sewed up his first "contemporary kilt" four years ago, and has doubled his business every year since.

In contrast, Steve made one his first year and doubled every year so that means he is now up to 8

[The Wizard of BC]

1+2+4+8=15 and I took an hour off for lunch.