New Kicks

[Taffy Jack]

I've been engaged upon a decidedly lackadaisical hunt for brown wingtip brogues to wear with a belt and [sweater/tweed/unadorned shirt] for a while now. Recently, I stumbled across these:

https://www.nordstromrack.com/shop/p...r=DARK%20BROWN

As of today, my pair is in-hand received. So far, I'm delighted by them. I sized up a half-size to 12-M US, as I'm on the long end of 11.5 US and they'll be worn with kilt hose -- perhaps over compression socks.

They seem sturdy, have trail-worthy soles firmly attached, and smell delightful. Firm grip from the heel box. The leather, though probably silicone-impregnated (it's tagged "waterproof leather"), bears the rich aroma of oil-tanning. Finish is a matte chocolate brown, with full-wrap wings. Wings are brogued along their upper edges; there's no toe-punch detailing. The laces are the waxed dark brown hue of a "burnt umber" Crayola.

These shoes look sharp enough to make my wife smile, cost a pittance from the Rack (something like 65% off), and they feel good on my feet. Frye has a solid reputation in the boot world and I hope these will prove to be high-mileage items.

I know tastes very, but if you're looking for a semi-rustic pair of wingtips, you might want to check these out while they're on discount (marked down from $299 to $79).

As for me, no more slumming it in slip-ons!

Cheers,

Jack

P.S. To clarify, I do NOT work for Nordstrom Rack or any affiliated vendor.

P.P.S. Note to mods: I have a nagging feeling that this post belongs somewhere off the general forum, but I failed to sort it. My apologies if it's misplaced, and I certainly won't be offended if it mysteriously lands in [appropriate place]. Thanks.

[Mel1721L]

I've been engaged upon a decidedly lackadaisical hunt for brown wingtip brogues to wear with a belt and [sweater/tweed/unadorned shirt] for a while now. Recently, I stumbled across these:

https://www.nordstromrack.com/shop/p...r=DARK%20BROWN

As of today, my pair is in-hand received. So far, I'm delighted by them. I sized up a half-size to 12-M US, as I'm on the long end of 11.5 US and they'll be worn with kilt hose -- perhaps over compression socks.

They seem sturdy, have trail-worthy soles firmly attached, and smell delightful. Firm grip from the heel box. The leather, though probably silicone-impregnated (it's tagged "waterproof leather"), bears the rich aroma of oil-tanning. Finish is a matte chocolate brown, with full-wrap wings. Wings are brogued along their upper edges; there's no toe-punch detailing. The laces are the waxed dark brown hue of a "burnt umber" Crayola.

These shoes look sharp enough to make my wife smile, cost a pittance from the Rack (something like 65% off), and they feel good on my feet. Frye has a solid reputation in the boot world and I hope these will prove to be high-mileage items.

I know tastes very, but if you're looking for a semi-rustic pair of wingtips, you might want to check these out while they're on discount (marked down from $299 to $79).

As for me, no more slumming it in slip-ons!

Cheers,

Jack

P.S. To clarify, I do NOT work for Nordstrom Rack or any affiliated vendor.

P.P.S. Note to mods: I have a nagging feeling that this post belongs somewhere off the general forum, but I failed to sort it. My apologies if it's misplaced, and I certainly won't be offended if it mysteriously lands in [appropriate place]. Thanks.

Search on the UK version of EBay and look for Army surplus brogues. Warren Officers and Officers wore brown brogues. You'll also find black brogues worn by Scottish soldiers. Some are second hand and some are hobnailed. Avoid hobnails for town wear as they can esaily slip.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...ogues&_sacat=0

[MikePotts]

Wow! - Frye's even.

They look great and what a price! - Great Find, enjoy.

[Tobus]

Congrats on the purchase, Taffy Jack. That's a decent looking shoe for out-of-doors activities. It's very similar to the pair that Shaun Maxwell wears to the Highland Games around here. They look to me like oil-tanned leather. They won't take a polish, but can be well maintained with mink oil paste or similar products to keep them water-resistant and prevent the leather from drying/cracking. It will also give them a medium sheen if buffed well, although not a high shine.

It's interesting that the website calls them "Wingtip Oxfords". There is nothing about these that would fit the Oxford category. I won't profess to be a shoe style expert, but I would call them more of a "longwing derby semi-brogue" (or perhaps even quarter brogue, since the cap is not brogued). But eh, that's a mouthful. Whatever you want to call them, I hope you enjoy them!

[thescot]

. . .
It's interesting that the website calls them "Wingtip Oxfords". There is nothing about these that would fit the Oxford category. . . .

Actually, I believe the term is "blucher" or "blucher oxford," for the wing tips shown, or at least it used to be. A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, (when dinosaurs roamed the earth and I was a young teenager), I sold shoes. Shoes of this type were marked "BLU OX" and were just a bit less dressy that a "balmoral oxford."

Then you get into what some would say about "balmoral," that it only refers to the boot style of shoe whose laces are like the "oxford," originally designed for Prince Albert (hence the name).

It all gets very confusing, and it even depends on where you are doing your talking and to whom. When I was selling shoes as a young lad, "oxford" loosely referred to any lace-up shoe; the blucher oxford had the flap type lacing structure while the balmoral did not.

But no matter--I like those shoes a lot! Wish they had them in big boy sizes. LOL

[Tobus]

Actually, I believe the term is "blucher" or "blucher oxford," for the wing tips shown, or at least it used to be. A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away, (when dinosaurs roamed the earth and I was a young teenager), I sold shoes. Shoes of this type were marked "BLU OX" and were just a bit less dressy that a "balmoral oxford."

Then you get into what some would say about "balmoral," that it only refers to the boot style of shoe whose laces are like the "oxford," originally designed for Prince Albert (hence the name).

It all gets very confusing, and it even depends on where you are doing your talking and to whom. When I was selling shoes as a young lad, "oxford" loosely referred to any lace-up shoe; the blucher oxford had the flap type lacing structure while the balmoral did not.

But no matter--I like those shoes a lot! Wish they had them in big boy sizes. LOL

Yes, it very much does depend on who one is talking to! When manufacturers can't even use the terminology consistently or correctly, everybody else is bound to get confused.

Calling any lace-up shoe an Oxford only serves to render the term meaningless. It does mean something important in the construction, and with all due respect, if a shoe salesman didn't know the difference, I'd not be buying shoes from him.

The shoes that the OP is talking about have an open-lace design. By definition, they cannot be Oxfords. The construction of this shoe has elements of both a Blucher and a Derby, whilst not fully satisfying either of those definitions to a tee. I do happen to agree with you that these could be considered Bluchers, if one wanted to look at them that way. Derby, Blucher, I'd be fine with either of those. But not an Oxford in any way.

[OC Richard]

What I've noticed is that with wingtips or plain shoes or in this case cap-toe/punch cap shoes, the pieces that have the holes are sometimes stitched onto the body of the shoe (left) and sometimes inset into the body of the shoe (right).

I have no idea what these styles are called, if anything.

[Taffy Jack]

The shoes that the OP is talking about have an open-lace design. By definition, they cannot be Oxfords. The construction of this shoe has elements of both a Blucher and a Derby, whilst not fully satisfying either of those definitions to a tee. I do happen to agree with you that these could be considered Bluchers, if one wanted to look at them that way. Derby, Blucher, I'd be fine with either of those. But not an Oxford in any way.

Thanks for that informative video!

I grew up with an awareness of precisely three (3) categories of men's shoes (because sandals and slippers don't count): 1) dress shoes; 2) sneakers; 3) boots. Due to life paths fallen into along the way, my awareness of boot styles far exceeds my awareness of shoe styles. In all honesty, for years I thought the name for dress shoes was "wingtip" and that it meant "weird-looking grandpa shoes with funny little holes."

So I've got one of those new shoes next to me as I type this. It's _definitely_ not a closed lace Oxford. I have a pair of those, capped, in black. They're brutally uncomfortable, but they take a nice shine (as I recall from army Oxfords, the top of my left foot has nerve issues that are exacerbated by shoes of this type). I've been wearing them for funerals and black tie events for years, even in uniform as they are much sharper than the issue shoes (I also replaced the "four in hand" uniform tie with a deep black silk tie; no one ever called me out on it).

Per the video, if I'm lookin' at 'em right, these brown ones seem to be closer to bluchers than derbies. Both the lace flap appliques and the wings wrap all the way to the back, but are stitched to the surface of the shoe body. As for broguing, it runs consistently along the bottoms of the lace flap pieces and the tops of the wings (extending also across the back of the toe cap), but there's no punch work or stitching on the toe cap itself.

Also, on second look, they're a bit harder-finished than I first realized. I can get an NCO-level brown shine on these, though I'm not convinced it would be an improvement.

Thanks for the shoe dope. I learned something here.

Cheers,

Jack

[FossilHunter]

Congrats on the purchase, Taffy Jack. That's a decent looking shoe for out-of-doors activities. It's very similar to the pair that Shaun Maxwell wears to the Highland Games around here. They look to me like oil-tanned leather. They won't take a polish, but can be well maintained with mink oil paste or similar products to keep them water-resistant and prevent the leather from drying/cracking. It will also give them a medium sheen if buffed well, although not a high shine.

It's interesting that the website calls them "Wingtip Oxfords". There is nothing about these that would fit the Oxford category. I won't profess to be a shoe style expert, but I would call them more of a "longwing derby semi-brogue" (or perhaps even quarter brogue, since the cap is not brogued). But eh, that's a mouthful. Whatever you want to call them, I hope you enjoy them!

One thing I've noticed on the department store websites is that nearly all dress shoes are called oxfords. It makes it hard to shop for genuine oxford laced shoes specifically. Macy's even has "monk strap oxfords."

https://www.macys.com/shop/featured/mens-oxford-shoes

[Blaidd]

Search on the UK version of EBay and look for Army surplus brogues. Warren Officers and Officers wore brown brogues. You'll also find black brogues worn by Scottish soldiers. Some are second hand and some are hobnailed. Avoid hobnails for town wear as they can esaily slip.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...ogues&_sacat=0

Just on a point of confirmation (not criticism), we officer types officially wear brown Oxfords, not brogues. The Highland regts wear black brogues. Can't open the ebay link so I am commenting in the dark!! No offence intended to anyone!