New kilt belt

[frank_a]

I used Chicago screws on this Tobus, and the belt keeper is hidden by two you can't see. When I get home later I'll take a pic of the backside.

I did do some pounding on flaps so I understand what you're suggesting. I have also made a 1 1/8" belt for general wear, but it's not died yet. I tried skiving with just razor blades to reduce thickness so I could get a Chicago screw through 4 layers (making it like 3, which works) of 8-9 oz leather but it didn't work too well. So I ordered a skiver. My only question is can I use it on a belt more than an inch wide? It's this one: http://www.stecksstore.com/servlet/t...r-Craft/Detail

I'd love to be able to skive the end of my 3" belts!

I also made a very precise template from steel plate for the 5 holes at the tag end. I wasn't getting it well by hand, and am handy with metal and machining. I made it this morning, cleaned and painted it. It should be dry when I get home.

More pics later, and with luck, me, the kilt, the tattersall shirt, the new belts, my new jacket, etc.

Thanks!

Frank

[Kilted in Maine]

When do you start taking orders?

[frank_a]

I'd take orders anytime! I enjoy doing this and am going to buy more leather, both for belts and sporrans. I believe I'm going to get some buffalo leather for my first sporran.

Frank

[frank_a]

Now for a brown belt...

newbelt.JPG

I think I'll leave it like this with just one coat of stain before final polish. I sorta like it.

Here's the template I made this morning for the 5 holes on the tag end. They're each 1/8. I'll use an old beat 1/8 drill bit for a center punch. That's because sometimes I want circular holes, and sometimes oval.

5holetemplate.JPG

Frank

[frank_a]

As promised, here is front and back views of the brass fasteners.

belts.jpg

New brown belt. Belt keeper is a bit tighter, but I need to do some experimentation. Overall, better than the 1st one!

newbelt2.jpg

New 5 hole template works great!

newbelt1.jpg

That's it for today. I need a break!

Frank

[frank_a]

Shortening the keeper did the trick. Took two to get where I wanted to go. Still need to wet form or pound as Tobus suggested to get it to lay flat, but I don't think I could go any tighter and still get the tag end of the belt in.

keeper.jpg

Frank

[Tobus]

Ah, I see what you did with the keeper now. Interesting. What I might suggest, if you're fixing the keeper to the belt like that, is to put it between the belt leather. Basically, make a 'sandwich' out of it, where the belt leather is on the outside and the ends of the keeper are in between. This will be smoother against the wool of your kilt. Also, skiving down the turn-back side of the belt (especially near the end, tapering it down to a very thin profile) will help it lay flatter and have less snag points against your kilt.

As for the oval holes, typically those are done with the long axis of the oval running in-line with the belt, not perpendicular as you've done them. The reason oval holes are used on belts in the first place is so that the tongue of the buckle will lay down better as it comes through the hole. For this to work, the oval needs to be running parallel with the tongue.

[frank_a]

I have a hand skiver on order Tobus, but won't know till I get it if I can do more than 1" in width. I like the sandwich idea, that would be much better. I can skive the keeper with no problem when I get the tool. I should have it by week's end. Of course, that means making new keepers, but that is not a problem.

Thanks for the tip on the oval holes. I kind of like them like this, but will change back in the future. It seems to me I did it because the metal piece that goes through them is wide.

Frank

Ah, I see what you did with the keeper now. Interesting. What I might suggest, if you're fixing the keeper to the belt like that, is to put it between the belt leather. Basically, make a 'sandwich' out of it, where the belt leather is on the outside and the ends of the keeper are in between. This will be smoother against the wool of your kilt. Also, skiving down the turn-back side of the belt (especially near the end, tapering it down to a very thin profile) will help it lay flatter and have less snag points against your kilt.

As for the oval holes, typically those are done with the long axis of the oval running in-line with the belt, not perpendicular as you've done them. The reason oval holes are used on belts in the first place is so that the tongue of the buckle will lay down better as it comes through the hole. For this to work, the oval needs to be running parallel with the tongue.

[Tobus]

Oh yeah, I forgot about your skiver question. Yes, you can skive wider than 1" with that. I have that same skiver, but to be quite honest, I don't use it much. It's easier to skive with a round knife where you can push the blade into the leather and control the angle. The one you've ordered will do the trick, but you just have to shave the leather in segments, kind of like peeling a potato with a knife. I'll warn you, though: you should practice skiving on some scrap leather first. The skiver you've purchased is a bit tricky to use, as it will tend to pull itself deeper into the leather than you intended if you're not careful. Also, since the blade is slightly curved, you'll want to learn how to do several passes to get a flat taper to the leather with it. It will take some practice to learn how to get a clean, even skiving job with that tool. And make sure you change the blade regularly, as a dull blade will make it much more of a messy job. The good thing, though, is that skiving doesn't have to be perfect since it's usually hidden. As long as the leather lays flat and doesn't have any bulges in it, it will do.

[frank_a]

Thanks Tobus, that's the info I was looking for. What's a "round knife"?

When ever I order something with a blade or blades, I order spare blades. I did that with the strap cutter and the skiver. I find that leather tends to dull blades quickly, at least for my good utility knife, but the strap cutter is working fine after cutting three 3", two 2 1/4" and two smaller strips. It is a great tool!

Thanks again for the help and suggestions. I'm getting there.

Frank