Should I pleat to the sett, or to the stripe?

**OC Richard** · 12th February 13, 07:21 AM

In general I prefer pleated to a line in the tartan, or to an open space ("pleating to the block"), for three reasons
1) form follows function: the back of a kilt isn't constructed like the front, it has pleats, so why make it look like an imitation of the front?
2) pleating to the line is more traditional and is still followed by the Army
3) it gives you two "looks" for the price of one, because the front and back of the kilt look so different.

HOWEVER there are some tartans the beauty of which absolutely depends on all the colour elements being visible simultaneously. These tartans are weakened when pleated to the line, no matter which element is chosen for the pleats.

About that tartan, if I were you I would go with the older genuine traditional symmetrical Buchanan rather than the asymmetrical one, the asymmetry of which has been traced to an illustrator's error in a 19th century book. In Victorian times they didn't know any better, but now we do.

Here is the original sett, which would probably look very nice pleated to the white line

http://www.scotlandshop.com/tartan.a...t-Tartan-12161

**unixken** · 12th February 13, 07:40 AM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

About that tartan, if I were you I would go with the older genuine traditional symmetrical Buchanan rather than the asymmetrical one, the asymmetry of which has been traced to an illustrator's error in a 19th century book. In Victorian times they didn't know any better, but now we do.

Here is the original sett, which would probably look very nice pleated to the white line

http://www.scotlandshop.com/tartan.a...t-Tartan-12161

I agree that would look sharp. I do, however, already have a Buchanan in the Ancient color scheme (its one of the "Essential" 5 yd deals that Nick offered via the Scotweb section of this forum.) I think what you've linked to is also known as the "Buchanan Old Sett".

At some point, I'll likely have a Coast Guard tartan, and that'll definitely be done to the stripe. But until then, I'll have this Bucky (and the Buchanan Reproduction that I'm also ordering), done "to the sett."

**creagdhubh** · 12th February 13, 08:01 AM

Originally Posted by OC Richard

In general I prefer pleated to a line in the tartan, or to an open space ("pleating to the block"), for three reasons
1) form follows function: the back of a kilt isn't constructed like the front, it has pleats, so why make it look like an imitation of the front?
2) pleating to the line is more traditional and is still followed by the Army
3) it gives you two "looks" for the price of one, because the front and back of the kilt look so different.

HOWEVER there are some tartans the beauty of which absolutely depends on all the colour elements being visible simultaneously. These tartans are weakened when pleated to the line, no matter which element is chosen for the pleats.

Fantastic points here, Richard. Absolutely spot on.

**mookien** · 12th February 13, 10:28 AM

Ken: You made a great choice. I, for one, will be looking forward to the pictures.

John

**unixken** · 13th February 13, 06:54 AM

The refund arrived early, so the order has been placed. Let the jonesing begin. ::sigh::

**creagdhubh** · 13th February 13, 08:12 AM

Originally Posted by unixken

The refund arrived early, so the order has been placed. Let the jonesing begin. ::sigh::

I'm jonesing right along with you, Ken! I currently have a (Barb T.) kilt on order, an 'Argyll' style tweed jacket and waistcoat, bespoke hose from AUW, etc. The anticipation will steadily increase in the weeks ahead, I am quite sure of this.

Can't wait to see photos, mate!

Slainte,