Next X- Kilt

[Shanntarra]

As for stream iron's work being that of a man. I'm not sure if I trust him near an iron. Especially my nice "press through anything" iron I have for my sewing. I might try the Joanns' thing, or I might take a chance on one of my other fabric sites. Doesn't hurt to write a review on it.
I think I may save those links for a later kilt. I'm not comfortable using that expensive of fabric just yet on a kilt. I've worked with 25 buck a yard fabric ( did that last week) but it was on a pattern I had made 4-5 times. I want another 2-3 under my belt before I try something that nice.
Alan, if someone paid me what my labor was worth they couldnt' afford anything I make.

[Alan H]

Remember, if you're *careful*, and the Rogue isn't too stout, and you make a full-width-apron X-Kilt you can just buy 2 yards of double wide-material.

You'll have to plan carefully to figure out where the "join" will be. In fact, you could cut out the stuff, and start with the over-apron and pin the kilt up to the "join"....then trim as needed to put the join just where it will both disappear in an inside pleat fold AND won't waste material. Once that's figured out, then join the two halves and finish the kilt. I bet you can figure it out such that you won't waste more than a few inches.

$50 for a killer X Kilt?

Instead of thinking "OMG ---- TWENTY FIVE DOLLARS A YARD!!!!!"

think

"Fifty bucks for an X-Kilt?"

[Shanntarra]

How is the shipping costs from this place? The past few weeks I have gotten killed by shipping costs. Long story....

I'll run it by the rogue. At the momment our minds are on getting the show up and running, but afterwards. who knows... His last kilt cost 40 anyway.

My rogue is a healthy 46 inch waist with a 20-21 inch drop. It would be cutting it very close if I only did 2 yards.

[Smayniac]

I don't know your theatrical connection, but I have made several kilts out of "chevron cloth," which is frequently used for low end theatrical drapes. It requires prewashing for shrinkage and to remove that nasty flameproofing, and it needs ironing. I also found it helpful to add fusible interfacing to the over apron for weight and stiffness.
For my next Xkilt, I plan to use some of the looser grain black chevron to make an RK; the experiment for me is going to be using the very tight but mismatched selvedge as the top an leaving off the waistband. I'll also add more weight at the bottom with a hem.
Bob

[Shanntarra]

I know a place I could problely get the fabric but it is like 50 mile round trip. Not THAT cost effective.

i talked to the rogue. He wants to wait on the high end materials for the momment. He thinks a nice twill will work. I did find a great resourse for the 2 inch wide velcro and for thread.Dry Cleaner Supply Company In their tailoring section they have all kinds of things. I especially like that I can get a cone of thread in most major colors for 7.50. When 1 x kilt takes 2 regular spools of 250 yard thread at 2.50 each I can get 6k yards worth of thread for 7.50. The velcro is 3 bucks for a yard of the 2 inch wide. They also carry tailors canvas but not in pieces larger than 5 yards. What is nice is that shipping is only $3.83 if it is less that $100 worth. It will take 7 days to get to you but worth it. You can get it quicker but your paying higher shipping prices.

If any one is doing Prince Charles or even coat re do's this site offers buttons by the dozen! I got nice metal buttons that are commonly used on suits for $1.65-$2.95 for a dozen. I typically pay that for 2-3 buttons on a card.

[sydnie7]

Thanks for that link, some good stuff there. Makes sense that dry cleaners would have the need, but who'd have ever thought there was a whole sub-industry supplying it? Ain't the Internet grand!

[vorpallemur]

I'd think #12 duck would make a fine X kilt. Yeah, it wouldn't hold a crease well, and it'll wrinkle. But it looks good, and it wears well.

edit: I think some construction changes would improve how a duck x-kilt looked, particularly in the apron. Interfacing the edge hems, and the left edge of the over-apron, for instance. I'll think about that some more.

editthesecond: Duck will shrink. A lot. like 10% length wise, or more. several prewashings are in order.

So, I was at my local Hancock fabrics, and discovered they had duck on sale. $3.74 a yard for 72" wide #12 (Not labeled as either #12 nor even duck, but that's a rant for another day.) unbleached, undyed duck. I got four yards, which is probably a bit more than required to make a kilt. It's in the dryer, we'll see how it shrinks...

edit: shrank four inches in width (about 5%) and at least a foot (and lost some length because the raw ends are coming un-done) length wise (8 or 9%). I should probably wash again before cutting it out.

[Shanntarra]

The show finally opened a week ago, so I can now concentrate on projects I want to do. The first being the new kilt for my husband's best friend. The second being my husbands new black kilt.

I am curious about something. My husband keeps telling me he has to cinch his kilt in an inch in order to wear it. This causes it to ride up an addtional inch or two, which makes it WAY too short.

What could I have done wrong? I made the waist to his exact waist measurement. Could it be he is just wearing it too low?

Lastly I'm going to ask a seemly stupid question but I need a good answer for my hubby. Why do you put the velcro on the waist band? Is this to help keep it closed? Is using straps replacing it? What?

[sydnie7]

IIRC, you posted a pic of your husband in another thread, and there were recommendations that he wear the kilt higher (or I may be thinking of somebody completely different, sorry if that's the case!). Fellows with bellies can have that problem, as the kilt wants to slide down to the smaller circumference at their hipbones. Pulling the kilt up so that the larger circumference of belly is below the waistband helps keep it from sliding down, but of course it needs to be the right length for that placement.

Yes, the velcro is just to keep it closed, and to keep the underapron from sagging down below the hem of top apron. Straps perform the same function. I've seen one modern/casual kiltmaker who doesn't put any closure on her kilts at all, instead figures that the belt will keep them in place. Not so sure about that one. . . she does offer closures if the customer requests.