I'm making my first x kilt. Gotten fairly far with it, but now I have a question. I'm bar tacking my pleats. In the instructions, it says that when you get to the first/last pleat, just tack the one edge down for appearance. OK, no problem. Question is, should I fold them straight down and sew, or iron a bit of a pleat under like the others? Thanks. Also, just for giggles, hich way should I have sewn the pleats? Across, or down? I sewed down, using a zig zag, with it hitting both pleats. Thanks!