Thanks Steve!

When I got the kilt, I did the stretch test, which saw very little stretch and stood up the fell, which it did but not well. Based on that, and how the fabric felt, I assumed that there was a stabilizer, interfacing and had cut out pleats.

Based on your post, I checked and it seems the pleats are not cut out. I don't know whether the steeking was original or added after the fact from what you've said, I don't need to worry about it.

As to why it failed, the thread seems rather cheap and I've checked when I'm wearing it and there doesn't seem to be much stress in that area so I don't know.

Thanks, as always, for taking the time to provide a detailed explanation.

Shane