Quote Originally Posted by Barb T.
I think it often depends on the tartan in question. Unless someone specifies one or the other, I pin up a chunk both ways and see which looks the sharpest. Some tartans are ghastly pleated to the stripe and others are blah pleated to the sett.

Cheers!

Barb
Ain't THAT the truth!!!

It's also infinately easier to pleat to the stripe for a kilt maker. If you're going to try to make your first kilt... try doing it to the stripe. It will also cut off a LOAD of time in the kilt making process.

This is why I (personally) prefer to have ALL of my kilts pleated to sett. It's an art that's dying, and one that takes real talent to do correctly. I have traditionals that look like the pleats are a solid wall of tartan since the kilt makers took the time to work the taper and pleats the right way. I have a BearKilt in Cape Breton that is another PERFECT example of how a "pleated to the sett" should look. There are pictures that honestly look like I'm wearing a solid material wrap. What a thing of beauty!

I prefer to honor the designer of the tartan and maintain the meaning in the weave... but that's just me. I also know that I love the look of the "Leatherneck Tartan" with the sewn to the stripe look. That's just unreal!!!

All I ask is that a kilt does NOT have the pleats with horizontal striping. I've seen it too many times, and it looks like a "Where's Waldo" or "Freddie Kruger" garment!