The trial continues...

pic #7 - The leather apron is stitched onto the edge of the first tapered pleat from hip to top of kilt. Since there were no opinions expressed on showing the front or back of the leather, I went ahead with my original intention of using the front. Also, I was about 4" short of material for the deep pleat behind the apron, so it took me a while to join in another piece of wool fabric, which should be completely hidden from view.

pic #8 - The excess fabric is cut out. *This is where I made a mistake.* With normal knife pleats, the next pleat is folded down behind before stitching the current pleat, thus producing multiple layers of fabric which is NOT cut out. I sewed these box pleats down individually (with no pleat folded in behind) so when I cut out the excess, the only material remaining besides the outside layer is the 1/2 +/- seam allowances. I obviously missed something here because there is not much to sew the stabilizer and canvas to later.

Perhaps a kiltmaker familiar with military box pleats could describe or illustrate the process for me.

pic #9 - Steeking, underapron canvas, and stabilizer stitched in. There will be no canvas under the leather apron, but there will be a nylon taffeta liner to prevent the suede surface from "sticking" to the rough wool-blend underapron.