My $.02- Check out the House of Edgar heavyweight tartan range. They are the only mill that I know of that makes the Brown tartan in a 16oz fabric. If that's to your liking, I'd recommend a custom-tailored kilt by Matt Newsome of the Scottish Tartans Museum in Franklin. I currently have 2 5yd. knife-pleated kilts and a 4yd. box-pleat, all in heavyweight wool. You can't beat this option for comfort, craftsmanship, and customer-service. Matt is by far the best supplier of Scottish goods I've run across.

David