I'm not really sure how to ask what I'm looking for. I know what pleating to the sett and stripe means and that the military used stripe but what I want to know is what features specifically do you look for in the tartan that indicate whether it would look good pleated a certain way. All tartans look good pleated to the sett but only some look good to the stripe. As an example, when I ordered a grey granite tartan kilt from USAkilts and I asked about pleating, it was recommended that I go with the sett (and I am sure this was the right choice.) What about that tartan makes it unsuitable to be pleated to the stripe (or no stripe?) I ask this as a general question for times when you don't have the material in front of you and you don't have a graphics editor (or the knowledge to use one) to experiment with.