Quote Originally Posted by ccga3359 View Post
...I'm interested in the reverse Kinguisse.
...
Where do I start...
Grant, this is where I got started back in 2002:

http://www.kiltair.com/kilt_making.php

This page has links to four different set of instructions, but the one on the upper right (Modern Kilts) is your best bet. It shows Jan working with tartan, but I worked it with cotton upholstery material. (Click "Comments" on the far left blue border - the first comment and pic is me.) The point of this initial exercise is to wrap your head around the "geometry" of a kilt. Jan's illustrations are pretty good and the instructions work with poly/cotton camouflage.

Barb's book does the same thing, but it is extremely detailed, focuses on traditional methods, and is geared specifically for wool. I came across The Art of Kiltmaking after making my first couple casual kilts and wanting to step up to wool tartan.

Follow Jan's instructions for the apron, the deep pleat, and one-half of the pleats following - as far as the center back. Leaving his instructions, the pleat on just the other side of the center faces the other way - and the two pleat edges touch, forming the inverted box pleat. Make these reversed pleats for the other one-half of the number, then another deep pleat under the underapron. The two halves of the kilt are mirror images of each other.

JUST FOR FUN - and before sewing anything - lay the fabric out on a table and at about hip level (approx 15 inches up from the selvedge) try folding and pinning both aprons, the deep pleats, the right-facing pleats, and the left-facing pleats. For the pleats, chalkmark the fabric every six inches and fold the pleats to reveal two inches and hide four. This exercise doesn't have to be done to your own hip measurements, but you could try.

Lay your hands on a Utilikilt and see how they do it (because they use the inverted Kinguisse style)... or I could send you the Pink Death camo kilt to use as a reference.

w2f