Tailor (new member) asking for help

[Cutter]

Here's a kilt concept that helped me understand their construction (talking about the traditional knife-pleated woolen kilt you're dealing with here, not modern demins and the like). The buckles are attached to the inner canvas/stiffener, so the wearer is "wearing" the lining and inner construction. The woolen outer garment is attached to the lining etc., but is more free to float and swing as the wearer moves.

Here on the forum, "tank" is commonly used to describe these traditional kilts. It was originally coined to indicate their durability, as in "made like a tank." However, I also think of the wearers as riding around inside the garment, like the soldier inside a tank. Not sure this image will help your project but it did help me visualize the construction.

Vis-a-vis reworking pleats and aprons, take note of the A-shape of aprons and the tapering width of pleats that should exist in the original garment. This change in circumference from hip to waist is a main factor in keeping the kilt in position on the wearer, and must be maintained (or improved) as you alter the garment to this wearer.

Hope this makes sense! As Canuck noted, you might be able to get him through the event with some buckle trickery, if the full re-work couldn't be done in time. Best of luck.

Thanks. Actually, this kilt has fused canvass. I'm all for economy, but it somehow seems strange to fuse, especially given your explanation. The wearer isn't wearing the inner construction (that would make sense, if he would).

Hi Cutter,

15 cm is a lot to take out of a kilt. What you really want to do is take the same amount out of the over apron, under apron, and the pleats. As stated above, you can increase the reverse pleat and the inverted pleats. These are next to each apron. Next, eliminate a pleat on each side. The idea is to keep everything symetrical.

Good tips, thank you! However, clarify for me please: if I deepen the pleats next to the aprons 15cm/4, meaning 3.5 off of each apron and 3.5 deepening of these two pleats, why would I have to eliminate pleats?

@Canuck: Got the point, thanks. I'll go for the full repair I suppose, there still is time, and this gentleman has had plenty of headaches. Wouldn't want to have him come back another round. (unless for a nice shirt or something )


Thanks for the input everyone!