I'm actually a professional seamstress who was talked into making an X-kilt for her darling hubby.

I downloaded the first edition of the kilt direction 6 months ago thinking I would use it in my theater work. The rogue fell in love with the custom kilt that he purchased for formal occasions. Add in that our corporate work just passed a dress code that says you can wear "ethic clothing" and on the list it says things like "saris, african, arabic, and scotch/ irish dress". I don't think they expected ANY ONE to actually dress in proper scottish dress. Well my rogue loves a challenge.
Long story short, I finally got an opening in my sewing schedule and I'm making him an X-kilt.

I have been following the directions, and measured like you said to and I was surprised that he is 18 inches from his navel to the top of his knee. He has a 49" rump. And it is 7" down to his fullest rump. I knew the rogue was short in the leg, but didn't think THAT short.

I calculated he needed 13 pleats with a 10" over apron. I followed the pleating diagram in Appendix 1. I'm a little unclear how to know how big to make the over apron. I ready to start the pleating tonight. Wish me luck.

BTW I did download the latest version (2nd editon) today. It has clearified some things.

Right now the rogue's only concern is the buttons. He doesn't feel it will keep his kilt up. He wants heavy duty buttons there. That doesn't feel right to me.

Help.... I'm good but I have never done this before.