Veg-tan is for tooling. The chrome-tanned are the soft leathers she would use for the gusset. Shoe coulde have a few shades of brown (with grain on) that would at least be complementary to the dye she uses on the tooling leather. Even if she used the same dye on her light-colored gusset leather she'd be lucky to get a match due to different tanning processes taking up the dye differently.