Try military box pleats - like a normal' box pleat but one 'arm' is extended so you get extra layers - just how many depends on how far you extend the arm - one box width and there are two extra layers, two box widths and you get an extra four. I don't usually do any sewing of edges - I don't sew any more than necessary to hold the kilt together at the waist, and if a hem is required these days I use the sewing machine rather than spend time hand sewing. when all the kilts are hanging up if would be difficult to tell which had the hours of hand sewing - but I have been using a sewing machine for about 50 years so I am not going to get any better now. I also join fabric at hidden folds to make up the required length. Frugality and 60 inch wide fabric tempts me to use all of it by cutting from selvage to selvage and making joins. I can usually make a kilt from three and a half yards.Anne the Pleater :ootd: