How Long To Weave 8 Yards Of Tartan?

[figheadair]

I think I've read that a weaver of Harris tweed can weave 8 meters a day, so Dalgliesh's looms probably can weave a little faster than that, and the big rapier-style looms even faster. Peter will know.

Well I know how much I can weave for certain. The rest is a bit of guess work but I'll have a bash. The common question to all of these is how long does it take to set the loom? More and more of the process has become automated and so overall things have become faster and therefore cheaper which is why hand woven cloth is no longer generally available like so much else that's traditional and labour intensive.

Another factor is whereas I would normally set a loom for a single length, max two for one run a power loom, accepting that Dalgliesh will do short runs at a premium) is normally set for a half or a full piece - 30 and 60 yds respectively.

Let me quash one myth for ever. Harris Tweed is not, and generally has not been 'Handwoven' for over 100 years despite what it says on the label. It's at best being economical with the truth. Marion Campbell's (now deceased) cloth was hand spun, dyed and woven on a wooden handloom. Most traditional tweed was woven on a semi-automatic Hattersley were the weaver provided the power by means of a treadle. A Harris tweed weaver, well most, would have been incapable of using a true handloom.

And so the the OP

I was just going through my kilts and got to wonder about the time differece in the weaving process, that is, how long does it take to weave 8 yards of tartan by the vararious means that are used today?

1 - Hand weave as done by Peter MacDonald of the STA
2 - Custom weave as done by D C Dalgliesh on a older style loom
3 - Standard weave on a high speed rapier loom as done by a majority of mills

I realise that there will be difference due to some fabrics being double width and only 4 yards needed, but just want to get an idea.

1 - It takes me a 1-2 days to set my loom depending on the complexity of the sett and then 4-6 yards for a 10 hr weaving day, again depending on the complexity of the sett. The best I've managed was 8 yards, the least 2. If I were to use natural dyes that process would extend to about 2 weeks all up and the resulting length be a one off.

2 - It probably takes 4-6 hrs to set up one of Dalgliesh's old looms after which they would probably weave something like 16-20 yards a day, single of double. I'm not too sure but they would be able to tell you.

3 - Anything I said about the modern rapier looms would be pure guess work but I will ask some of the STA trade members and see if they are prepared to give an answer.