Assistance needed in the identification of this tartan.

[Eck]

Just throwing this in as food for thought, Herr Doktor has indicated that the kilt is a 26" (rather slim) waist and that the colours in the folds match the colours on the outside which would tend to discount fading - it's a possiblility that the kilt has been washed instead of dry cleaned, hence the loss of particular dye colour and rather slim waist due to shrinkage? Just a thought.

[davidlpope]

Just throwing this in as food for thought, Herr Doktor has indicated that the kilt is a 26" (rather slim) waist and that the colours in the folds match the colours on the outside which would tend to discount fading - it's a possiblility that the kilt has been washed instead of dry cleaned, hence the loss of particular dye colour and rather slim waist due to shrinkage? Just a thought.

Not quite. If you look at the close-ups of the twill you see that there are actually two colors (purple and khaki brown) which combine to produce the "Hodden Gray" effect where the CoE tartan would have blue. This isn't the result of fading, bleaching, etc. It's a result of the weaving.

The selvedge and the colors make me think it's a Dalgliesh-produced tartan. Why doesn't someone in the UK ring Ken and ask if he's ever seen this fabric?

David

[figheadair]

Not quite. If you look at the close-ups of the twill you see that there are actually two colors (purple and khaki brown) which combine to produce the "Hodden Gray" effect where the CoE tartan would have blue. This isn't the result of fading, bleaching, etc. It's a result of the weaving.

It does indeed have a different colour in the warp and weft but this is not how Hodden Gray is woven. The uses the same 'mixtured' yarn in both directions and it is the fact that it is not woven from a pure colour yarn that causes the mottled effect.

[davidlpope]

It does indeed have a different colour in the warp and weft but this is not how Hodden Gray is woven. The uses the same 'mixtured' yarn in both directions and it is the fact that it is not woven from a pure colour yarn that causes the mottled effect.

Agreed. As I understand it, Hodden Gray is properly a tweed. Just didn't know a better way to describe a "purplish-grayish-beige" than "Hodden Gray".

[Herr Doktor]

It is a bit of a conundrum isn't it? I have looked without success in finding out what has happened with this kilt. Thanks to everyone for having a go at it.
It is still a mystery tartan, yes?
So, perhaps for the moment I shall just name it "Ersatz-Erracht".
Until the guilty weaver comes forward, and admits to having a bottle of whiskey disguised as a shuttle hidden in the basket, we are stuck with conjecture. It is still an attractive tartan no matter what one wants to call it.

Does anyone want more photographs of the sett? Macro pictures are not a problem, so.....