The folklore pattern is really good, as it gives history, and hints on how to hand sew the pleats. It comes with a pattern for the Prince Charlie Jacket and vest. The pattern for argyle socks and a knitted vest as well as instructions for a pleated skirt for the ladies.
I got it from another website but I just did a search and this one works.
http://folkwear.com/152.html

I also found an article in Threads magazine March 1991. It has detailed instructions with photo's on how to build a kilt.
I also found a book by R.F.Glover on kiltmaking, which also takes you step by step.
If you can borrow a kilt from someone when you start building it helps a lot.
Basically you are taking a rectangular piece of fabric that has a pleated section that is tapered so when it is wrapped around you fits your body.
All the best
Robert